Elsa Peretti Jewelry Devotees, Rejoice!
This week, Tiffany & Co. launched a capsule collection of statement-making styles from its archives of Peretti pieces. The designs will debut and retail exclusively at the Tiffany Flagship Next Door in New York City initially but will then roll out to select stores worldwide.
Many of the reissued designs haven’t been seen or sold by Tiffany in roughly 20 years. But nine are unmistakably Peretti—a handful of her famous hallmarks, including mesh, silk, and cabochon gemstones, are easy to spot.
The company, which is currently in litigation with LVMH over an acquisition deal that fell through, is debuting the collection in part to fete the 50th anniversary of Peretti’s iconic Bone cuff, which is one of the most beloved and recognizable jewelry designs of the 20th century.
The capsule includes nine pieces, with an emphasis on larger-scale Mesh designs, that feature keshi pearls and diamonds. Prices range from $2,800 to $125,000.
Peretti, who turned 80 in May, said in a prepared statement from Tiffany, “I don’t have the feeling that I need to add a lot to my collection, because I have an incredibly wide range of things. But I’m happy to see designs that are so important to me reinvigorated in this way, made even more modern and relevant.” She added, “This is part of the secret of my things—they are still valid.”
The Italian designer is one of the most important and influential jewelry designers of the past century, and her work embodied a sensual, sculptural design movement that flourished in the 1970s and continues to thrive. Peretti’s pieces, especially the Bone cuff, have swung back into style in a big way in recent years, with influencers, celebrities, and editors collecting and wearing her designs.
Peretti, a former model and jewelry designer for Halston, elevated sterling silver in her work, which played a huge role in ushering the relatively affordable metal back into vogue: She began working at Tiffany & Co. full time in 1974 exclusively to build out its silver jewelry line.
Though her shapely, all-metal designs are her most celebrated, she also worked brilliantly with gems. Among the reissued pieces is the Mesh 18k yellow gold necklace with 66 round brilliant diamonds totaling 3.72 carats, the 18k yellow gold Mesh necklace with an emerald tumbled bead (ranging from 5 cts. to 16 cts.), and the large sterling silver Mesh necklace that boasts two rare Tahitian keshi pearls.
Vintage Tiffany Elsa Peretti Scarf Necklace, circa 1970's, original owner
currently available at Deleuse.com
Deleuse Jewelers, 55 Broadway, Fairfax, Ca 94930