"One of my favorite stones to design with is Aquamarine, Latin for “Water of the Sea.” The cool blue hues of the gem reminds me of the crystal blue colors of water....from the blue hues of the largest ice glaciers to the microscopic snowflakes– from cold lake water to the warm South Seas.
When looking into an Aquamarine one can almost feel the waters of the oceans---the blue green waters of the Caribbean or the deep Mediterranean blues. The sailors navigated the oceans and traditionally kept aquamarine stones as their talisman...a connection of the water with the aquamarine gem." Janet Deleuse
Janet Deleuse Aqua Earrings
Janet Deleuse Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Earrings
Aquamarines and Emeralds belong to the Beryl mineral group. The source of the blue hues in the Aquamarine is iron, and depending on the percentage of iron, the color will range in blue to bluish-green tones. Emeralds are hues of green from the percentage of the inherent minerals chromium and vanadium.
Beryl deposits are found around the world with Brazil as the principal source. The Ural Mountains in Siberia is also a major source. Small amounts of beryl are found in China, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Africa.
Beryl crystals grow in large hexagonal prisms and therefore,Aquamarines are typically cut and polished in a rectangular shape, known as “emerald cut.”
One of the largest gem-quality Aquamarines was mined in 1910 in Brazil and weighed 243 pounds. The Natural History Museum in London displays a flawless, sea-green colored Aquamarine weighing 879.5 carats. The Natural History Museum, in Los Angeles, displays a 638 carat stone.
Aquamarine jewelry was found as early as 400-300 BCE.
In 1775 Prince Carl Anselm became a ‘Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece’ and acquired a collection of very impressive aquamarine gemstones, which were used in his jewelry to commemorate the order.
The Neck Badge of the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece contains a very large greenish, cushion cut aquamarine, surrounded by diamonds. At a later date, the jewelry was converted into brooches and was auctioned off at the Geneva Sotheby’s in the early 19th century.
Cartier’s Panther Jewelry collection was designed from the motif of the Golden Fleece.
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Carl Faberge fabricated a famous platinum thistle brooch in 1915. The stem and leaves are paved in diamonds with a large Aquamarine, from the Ural Mountains, as the flower.
Aquamarines were used extensively during the Art Nouveau period. A beautiful example of this, is an extraordinarily detailed dragon brooch designed by Etienne Tourettec 1903. Fabricated in blue enamel, set with small blue aquamarines in the wings and a large green aquamarine is held in the serpents mouth.
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During the 1940’s, aquamarines were the most popular of all gemstones.
The famous Tiffany’s suite shown below, included a bracelet, necklace, earrings and ring with large rectangle center aquamarines. All set in curved gold settings accompanied with sapphires and diamonds. This stunning set was illustrated in the August 1942 issue of Promenade, at a cost of $7,000.00.
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The Duchess of Windsor carried a gold compact designed by Verdura in1950.
Known for his eccentric creations, Verdura set a large shape Aquamarine heart the center of the compact. Verdura, who started producing personal ornaments for Coco Chanel, became well known in high society for his wit and whimsical designs.
When Joan Crawford arrived in Hollywood in 1925, Metro Goldwyn Mayer gave her an uninspiring profile–labeling her as a plain woman with light brown hair and weighing 145 lbs. By 1937, Life Magazine had given her the title of First Queen of the Movies.
From rags to riches, Joan loved and wore her Aquamarine parure. The parure,called “The Kobai Collection, included a necklace, brooch and bracelet, all designed by E.M.Tompkins. He describes it as, “The bracelet has four rows of oval aquamarines with a wide gold and diamond motif in the center; the necklace has two rows of aquamarines with interspersed gold and diamond motifs; the clip is a curved gold and diamond motif with a cascade of four aquamarine rows flowing from the center.” Joan clipped her brooch, the cascading stones on the front of her dresses, blouses, belts and head-scarfs.
Joan Crawford’s favorite Aquamarine parure was purchased by Andy Warhol.
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Janet Deleuse Carved Aquamarine Flowers with Aquamarine and Diamonds
“I created this ring with a cushion shape 16.54 ct. Aquamarine. The cut inspired me for this design of a tasseled pillow motif. The hand-fabricated setting is in platinum and paved in diamonds with a sweeping billowy softness. The faceted sapphire briolettes dangle from each corner in yellow, pink, green and pale-blue represent tiny tassels.” Janet Deleuse Design
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]]>We will help you through the process of designing your special ring that you're dreaming about. We also offer one-off Janet Deleuse Designer rings.
Here are some of our favorites.
Got an idea? Talk to jewelry designer, Janet Deleuse, for details of the design process.
Jeff Deleuse, Graduate Gemologist and Diamond Specialist will guide you in choosing your diamonds--beyond the 4 C's.
Call for information 415-459-3739 or email us: deleuse@deleusejewelers.com
]]>The luster of any pearl, whether natural or cultured, depends on the thickness of the nacre. If the nacre is thin, the pearl will look chalky and dull; a pearl with thick nacre will appear ‘metallic’ and exhibit a reflection.
It is best to view pearls in natural light. Fine quality pearls exhibit iridescence. For example, a Tahitian grey pearl may have overtone hues of lavender, pink and olive greens—called ‘peacock’. A lustrous, even color, without blemishes and perfectly round is the most valuable.
The value will be diminished when a pearl is not completely smooth and has slight nicks, wrinkles, scratches, cracks, pits, dimples, bumps in the nacre, known as surface blemishes.
A perfectly round pearl is the most valuable of all. The Japanese Akoya form round pearls more often than any other type of oyster. There are many oval shaped pearls that may appear round; the price of a slightly oval pearl will be considerably less.
Many different shapes of pearls, depending on the type of oyster and the type of nucleation, are found all over the world. A Baroque shape refers to a pearl that is not round, but has an irregular shape with uneven surfaces. Examples of baroque shapes are called pear, rectangular, square, egg, button, wings and coin.
Tahitian pearls can be round, semi-round, drop, button, baroque and circle (rings around the pearl). South Sea pearls are round, semi round, circle and baroque. Freshwater pearls are mostly baroque and come in endless varieties of shapes, often flat as rather than spherical.
A blister pearl is a natural or cultured pearl that is attached to the surface of the shell, when they are removed from the shell they are flat on one side and covered in nacre on the top. Mabe pearls are a cultured blister pearl with a round top and tend to be very delicate. Seed pearls are very small natural pearls usually 2mm round. Keshi pearls are a byproduct of the oyster, a small pearl that can form in the muscle of the oyster in addition to the cultured pearl. They can be flat, oval, odd-shaped and usually has a poor luster quality.
When choosing a strand of pearls, the first thing to look for is matched size, color, roundness and luster. Pearls are traditionally strung on a special silk cord from Japan that are usually tied with a tiny knot in between each pearl to keep them separate and secure.
When pearls are worn over the years the thread will stretch, if the pearl slides on the thread, it is an indication that it is time to have the pearls taken apart, cleaned and restrung. A 16” strand is called a choker; 18” strand a princess; 20” a matinee and 32” an opera. Any strand longer than opera is called a rope of pearls.
Pearls are a delicate gem that can easily be damaged or destroyed with perfumes, hair sprays and oils from skin. The nacre, or surface of the pearl, will dissolve from acids.
Pearls should never be worn in water such as hot tubs, swimming pools or showers. Extreme heat can crack the nacre, if left in the sun or by a heater.
Pearls need to be cleaned with a soft, damp cloth, without the use of any detergents or cleaners. Never use any type of abrasive cleaners or abrasive materials or the pearl surface. Do not put pearls in ultrasonic cleaners or commercial jewelry cleaners.
A damaged pearl can never be repaired because the nacre cannot be replaced. Pearls should be stored in a soft pouch or pearl folder. Safekeeping and treatment of pearls will ensure that pearls can last for generations.
Janet Deleuse
For more information call us: 415-459-3739
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]]>An expensive device developed by DeBeers for diamond dealers is an instrument which uses ultraviolet light to detect the difference between natural and lab grown diamonds. Lab grown diamonds will show a strong phosphorescent glow that is not common to natural diamonds.
Some say the development of lab-grown diamonds are exactly the same as mined diamonds. This statement is causing an upheaval in the jewelry industry.
Lab grown diamonds are promoted as ecologically progressive, however this has not been documented or proven. The lack of disclosures about what the waste byproducts are comprised of and the disposal procedures are a major environmental concern. We should be asking questions; how is this affecting our environment? Without this information how can lab grown diamonds be marketed as environmentally safe?
Lab grown diamonds are produced world wide; is not a futuristic idea. Produced in large to very small sizes by several private companies, including DeBeers and the Swarovski Group. One of the first lab grown diamonds made for commercial sales was a ten carat diamond by a Russian diamond lab in 2015.
The process starts by placing a small sliver of a mined natural diamond (called a seed) into a machine which will ultimately produce a larger (lab grown) diamond with the use of gases under high temperatures and pressure which aids in the binding of carbon molecules to the seed diamond to increase in size.
The cost difference of lab grown diamonds are currently less (expected to drop) than mined natural diamonds. This discounted amount will make it possible for more people to wear diamonds; comparable to the history of culturing pearls in the early twentieth century enabling more affordable pearls.
However, in my opinion, as more lab grown diamonds are produced worldwide the economics of 'supply and demand' will affect the overall pricing...similar to the cultured pearl industry years ago.
The term 'cultivated diamond' is used incorrectly to represent lab grown diamonds. For example, a cultured pearl is produced from oysters that are raised in 'farm' like conditions.
Diamonds do not grow; the molecular structure is expanding with additions of carbon molecules due to the properties of carbon in certain conditions that a lab is providing.
Make sure that you are aware of what you are purchasing. Lab grown should be fully disclosed to the buyer, engraved on the stone and sold with proper certification.
Russel Shor, from the Gemological Institute for America believes that the desire for mined natural diamonds will remain because "it comes from deep from Mother Earth...they are billions of years old, probably, the oldest thing we can buy."
The abbreviations you should know when purchasing a diamond: The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) identifying stones that laboratories have produced using chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT).
I frequently post ongoing discussions and links to information about the pros and cons of lab grown diamonds vs. natural diamonds.
Janet Deleuse
UPDATED NEWS
French authorities have ruled that lab-grown diamond sellers can only use the word synthetic to describe their product.
A 2002 decree lists synthetic as the only acceptable qualifier for stones “whose physical, chemical properties and crystal structure correspond essentially to those of the natural stones that they copy.”
In 2022, a diamond manufacturer asked France’s Ministry of the Economy, Finance, and Industrial and Digital Sovereignty to modify the rule to allow use of the term laboratory-created. But last October, following consultations with the trade, the ministry decided things should stay as is.
“Many of you (nearly forty, including the professional federations) responded to [our] questionnaire, and we thank you for that,” said a ministry email sent to those who commented. “An analysis of the replies received shows that a majority of players are in favor of maintaining the [2002] decree.”
French jewelry organization UFBJOP was among the parties that submitted input, contending that laboratory-grown and laboratory-created have “no acceptable French-language translations.” By contrast, it called synthetic a “clear term, understandable by the consumer.”
“[A survey of] more than 1,000 French people, aged 25 and over, revealed that 83% of French people were able to give a definition to synthetic diamonds, characterizing them mainly as an artificial stone,” UFBJOP said. “90% of those questioned understood that these stones are not extracted from the Earth.”
It further noted that international Customs authorities require manufactured diamonds to be labeled synthetic.
Despite the existing decree, the term lab-grown has often been used by French jewelers that sell synthetic gems, including Courbet and LVMH-owned FRED. The two companies did not return a request for comment.
The French government’s stance on this issue differs from the U.S. Federal Trade Commission’s. In 2018, the FTC removed synthetic from its list of recommended terms for lab-grown diamonds, saying consumers might mistakenly believe that lab-grown diamonds are non-diamond simulants akin to cubic zirconia. However, contrary to some assertions, the agency did not disallow synthetic—and, in fact, used the word in a 2021 blog post about shopping for gemstones.
By Rob Bates | January 10, 2024
Need grows for lab-grown diamond detection
Rob and Vic’s conversation shifts to an unsettling trend involving people attempting to pass off lab-grown diamonds as natural. With the price gap between the two markets widening, disguising lab-grown diamonds as natural ones becomes more tempting, so “I think it’s possible these incidents will increase,” Rob says. Such mislabeling is illegal, he warns.
After two gemological labs found lab-grown diamonds with fraudulent inscriptions misidentifying the stones as natural, trade groups have introduced same-day services to verify a diamond’s inscription and origin.
On Sunday, the Diamond Manufacturers and Importers Association (DMIA) announced that it had installed four diamond identification machines at its New York City offices. Group members can use the devices free of charge, by appointment only.
The DMIA has also begun offering a same-day service with the International Gemological Institute (IGI) that allows for quick identification of individual diamonds as well as parcels.
GIA, meanwhile, is rolling out a same-day service meant to verify whether a diamond’s inscription corresponds to the actual stone. The service, which will initially be free, is expected to start next week, first in New York City, then in other markets. It will be open to walk-in clients, who can expect a 15-minute wait for one loose stone. (Mounted stones can be checked but will require more time.)
The news comes amid increasing reports of fraudsters marking lab-grown diamonds with counterfeit inscriptions that correspond to previously graded natural gems.
Earlier this month, IGI reported that a 6.01 ct. lab-grown pear-shape had been submitted with a fake GIA inscription (pictured at top) identifying it as a natural diamond.
While some took the announcement to imply that GIA had misidentified the diamond’s origin, an IGI spokesperson tells JCK that the inscription was a counterfeit not issued by GIA. The inscription did include a genuine report number that corresponded to a natural diamond GIA had graded.
IGI’s spokesperson says the “client submitted the stone [to IGI] for screening, to determine whether it was natural or not.”
Last week’s IGI release said that the diamond’s “carat weight, physical spread, and primary qualities matched the natural diamond’s online data.” However, subsequent analysis revealed a carbon inclusion in place of the feather indicated by GIA, as well as a mismatch in reported depth. The IGI cautioned that “such discrepancies could go unnoticed outside of a laboratory, particularly once the stone is set into a piece of jewelry.”
The lab isn’t releasing the name of the client, and added that the source of the fake inscription is “unknown.” The spokesperson says, “All IGI clients are subject to know-your-customer measures and compliance with our terms and conditions.”
In December, Italian lab Gem-Tech said it had spotted three synthetic diamonds with fake inscriptions that falsely identified them as GIA-graded natural diamonds.
Again, all three diamonds had the same weight and similar characteristics to the diamonds matching the fake inscriptions. But Gem-Tech detected differences in the diamonds’ reported proportions and fluorescence, and later confirmed the stones were grown with chemical vapor deposition.
“It would not be the first time that malicious individuals have legitimately obtained reprints of authentic reports and paired them with stones other than those described,” said the lab in a statement. “Furthermore, cloning a document by forging the type of paper backing and authentication systems is not particularly complex. The technology to laser-engrave any logo is now available to many, making it less secure.”
Gem-Tech noted that “new, more sophisticated systems are appearing on the market” that “are virtually impossible to counterfeit because they are based on laser inscription beneath the surface of the diamond.”
GIA warned last year that it had seen a number of diamonds with fake inscriptions.
This Ban will have an impact on the Lab Grown Diamond Industry.
By Rob Bates | September 22, 2023
European Union legislators have struck a deal for new rules that will ban most companies from using widely used eco-descriptors like environmentally friendly, eco, climate neutral, and carbon neutral.
The new rules still have to receive approval from the full European Parliament and Council. Those bodies are expected to vote in November. If the rules are approved, member countries will have until 2026 to enact the guidance.
The deal calls for:
-A ban on generic environmental claims if the trader cannot demonstrate an excellent environmental performance.
– A ban on sustainability labels that are not based on certification schemes or established by public authorities.
– A ban on claims based on emissions-offsetting schemes, which are typically called carbon neutral or climate neutral.
– A stricter set of rules for claims of future environmental performance, which will be allowed only if they are accompanied by a realistic implementation plan and feasible targets. They must also be reviewed by independent third-party experts, and their findings will be made available to consumers.
The news comes as the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is overhauling its Green Guides, which dictate how U.S. marketers should communicate environmental claims. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee and other industry players recently submitted suggestions on how the guides should be modified.
EU consumer advocates hailed the new rules.
“Generic environmental claims are popping up everywhere, from food to textiles,” Ursula Pachl, deputy director of the European Consumer Organization (BEUC), in a statement. “Consumers end up lost in a jungle of green claims with no clue about which ones are trustworthy. Thankfully, the new rules are putting some order in the green claims’ chaos.
“Companies will have to explain why a product is environmentally friendly. This is crucial if we are to guide consumers to make more sustainable consumption choices.”
Pachl called the ban on claims about carbon neutrality “great news for consumers.” The new language goes further than the EU’s original proposal, which allowed the terms but called for increased transparency around electrical use and carbon offsets.
“Carbon neutral claims are greenwashing, plain and simple,” Pachl said. “It’s a smoke screen giving the impression companies are taking serious action on their climate impact.”
In 2020 the European Commission assessed 150 business environmental claims and found that 53% of them contained “vague, misleading, or unfounded” information. Another survey found that 40% of eco-claims made by EU businesses were likely misleading.
By Victoria Gomelsky | March 13, 2023
“We owe it to the public to have more transparency about lab-grown diamonds,” Reinsmith said. “We should cease referring to them as identical, with differences only seen with special tools. If you’re an independent jeweler who recently started selling lab-grown, you likely built your business on reputation. You owe it to your customers to get educated on what the quality characteristics are beyond the 4Cs."
Imagine two round brilliant-cut diamonds displayed side by side. Each is 1 ct. in size, F color, VS2 clarity. One is a natural, mined diamond and the other is lab-grown.
Most retailers have been taught that beyond their disparate origins, the diamonds are chemically, optically, and physically identical, and that’s the message they’ve conveyed to consumers.
“For years, the trade has repeated these sentiments: that lab and natural diamonds are indistinguishable from each other,” says Lindsay Reinsmith, chief operating officer and director of sales at Ada Diamonds, a lab-grown, direct-to-consumer diamond brand based in San Francisco.
“We’re seeing so many more reductive claims that this is an indistinguishable product and that’s not the case,” adds Jason Payne, Reinsmith’s husband and CEO of Ada Diamonds.
The potential structural and crystal differences between lab-grown and natural diamonds, as well as between lab-growns in general, go well beyond the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat size), and can often be seen with the naked eye. That was the gist of an hour-long presentation that Reinsmith and Payne gave at GIA headquarters in Carlsbad, Calif., on March 1 as part of the institute’s monthly guest speaker series.
“I look at lab diamonds all day,” Reinsmith tells JCK. “The year 2019 was a big turning point. We started to see a lot more material. We’d ask to inspect stones for our inventory and we started to see a lore more variants beyond the 4Cs in our office. And we started to have conversations with growers.”
Much of what Reinsmith and Payne began seeing were lab diamonds grown via chemical vapor deposition (CVD) that were tinged with brown or gray colors, or featured signs of strain and striation—lending the stones a streaky and blurry appearance, respectively.
In diamonds grown by high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) presses, some of the telltale signs of poor-quality growth that Reinsmith and Payne noted were stones tinged with blue or gray, as well as those that had phosphoresced.
The couple explained these crystal defects as the intentional byproducts of growing processes designed to speed product to market at the expense of quality.
“In the beginning, lab diamond growers sought to create super high-purity crystals that rivaled some of the best natural diamonds,” Reinsmith said during the presentation. “Then, in the last few years, interest exploded. Aspirational players [entered the market], many using disadvantaged technology. A lot had no business growing diamonds.
“The problem was exacerbated during Covid,” she added. “Diamond mining stayed shut longer than diamond growing. Cutters needed rough to cut and this has incentivized a market that encourages producing as much and as fast as possible for the lowest cost possible.”
As growers around the world sought to increase their output, yet lacked the finances to increase their capital investments, they began taking shortcuts, said Reinsmith.
“You accelerate your growth cycle, you use and reuse cheap materials, you introduce masking materials,” she said “Lab-growns got faster and cheaper to produce, but not better.”
Payne made clear that growing problems often start with seeds. “There is no such thing as a perfect seed,” he said. “Seed quality defines diamond quality. The more faults, the blurrier the diamonds.
“Seeds deteriorate with each use,” he added. “So every time you use a seed, and start and stop your CVD reactor, the quality of the seed decays. You recycle them and they get poorer in quality. The challenge for CVD growers is to procure good quality seeds.”
The upshot of these market dynamics is two-fold: One, there’s been a glut of lab-grown material, particularly in the 2 to 3 ct. range. And two: The market is bifurcating into two segments, one populated by upscale producers who take time growing their diamonds and charge a premium as a result, and budget producers who prioritize fast, cheap goods.
Reinsmith and Payne said they expect greater industry consolidation, as poor-quality growers begin going out of business, and, in the worst-case scenario, a consumer confidence crisis that stands to disrupt the entire lab-grown diamond trade.
By Rob Bates | February 08, 2023
This year, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) will start revising its “Green Guides,” which lay out rules for environmental marketing claims.
The Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) is asking the industry for suggestions for how the Green Guides should handle jewelry. (JVC’s suggestion form is here.)
Here’s one relatively small—but irritating—issue that I hope will be considered.
The FTC should not allow—or, at the very least, it should place strict parameters on—terms such as “mining-free,” “created without mining,” and “no mining.” These descriptors are frequently used for lab-grown diamonds. Examples can be seen here, here, here, here, and here.
From what I understand, the FTC judges claims and descriptions on two main criteria. First, they have to be true. (Obviously.) Second, they have to clearly communicate the nature of the product.
So, for example, the term “aboveground diamonds” might be technically accurate, but FTC lawyers say it doesn’t properly communicate the diamond’s lab-grown origin. (After all, some natural diamonds are found above ground.)
A descriptor such as “mining-free” does fulfill the second criteria: It clearly communicates the diamonds’ lab-grown origin. The problem is, lab-grown diamonds aren’t mining-free.
“Mining-free” implies there was no mining involved in the diamonds’ production. But very few products in this world can be considered truly mining-free. The iMac I’m typing this on certainly isn’t. Mined materials will also be needed to produce green technology. However you feel about mining—and it’s a sector with plenty of bad as well as good—its products surround us daily. Without it, we couldn’t get much done.
Manufacturing high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) diamonds requires graphite. Producing lab-grown diamonds with the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) method requires high-purity methane and hydrogen. The methane is generally sourced from oil, gas, and coal mining.
“Methane mainly comes from the ground,” says David Hardy, founder of Bringdiamonds.com, a diamond grower. “So does graphite.… Even the equipment used has metals, and they don’t come from the air either.”
Ryan Shearman, cofounder and chief alchemist of Aether Diamonds, which converts carbon dioxide captured from the air into methane to create lab-grown gems, asserts that “there’s no real way to source methane responsibly. It’s either coming from crude oil production or it’s coming from fracking.”
He says new ways of generating methane are starting to emerge—including from biogenic sources (i.e., farm animals)—but there aren’t currently established supply chains for that. read entire article
JCK. By Rob Bates | February 01, 2022
The International Gemological Institute (IGI) and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) labs have recently examined the largest lab-grown diamonds they have ever seen grown with the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) methods.
In January, the IGI announced it had seen a record-setting lab-grown blue crystal piece of rough (shown at top), which weighs 150.42 cts. and measures 28.55 mm x 28.25 mm x 22.53 mm. This is believed to be the largest lab-grown diamond ever produced.
It also saw a second gray crystal weighing 141.58 cts. that measures 28.9 mm x 28.5 mm x 20.75 mm.
“The acceleration of technology in the lab-grown diamond sector is significant,” said IGI senior director of education John Pollard in a statement. “In addition to record-setting weights, they’re type IIb crystals, a semiconducting category associated with diamond-based electronics.”
Both diamonds were grown in Ukraine with HPHT by Alkor-D, a subsidiary of Meylor Global. Meylor had set the prior record for the world’s largest lab-grown diamond, which weighed 115 carats.
At last year’s JCK Las Vegas show, Meylor Global CEO Yuliya Kusher told JCK her company was working on a 200 carat diamond.
“I don’t think CVD can do that,” she said. She added that while most Chinese producers use HPHT, “they are making a lot of melee, [not even] 1 ct.”
Meylor Global is the official distributor of diamonds created by New Diamond Technology, the grower based in Russia known for producing record-setting diamonds. It is owned by Ukrainian national Timur Mindich.
In addition, the GIA recently examined the largest known polished lab-grown diamond it has ever seen produced by CVD.
The 16.41 ct. princess-cut diamond was grown with the CVD method by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology Co., which has been working on CVD technology since 2002.
May 18, 2021 7:29 AM By Rapaport News
RAPAPORT... The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has seen a rise in submissions of lab-grown diamonds with counterfeit inscriptions that make the stones appear natural.
Clients using the GIA’s update or verification services are increasingly sending in goods that prove to be synthetic, the organization said Monday. These stones have falsified girdle engravings that reference a genuine natural-diamond report number, while most have almost identical measurements and weights to the natural diamonds they mimic.
In a recent case, someone submitted a 3.075-carat, H-color, VVS2-clarity, triple-Ex, lab-grown diamond to GIA Antwerp for an update. The stone carried a report for a 3.078-carat, G-color, internally flawless, triple-Ex natural diamond. The synthetic stone’s real-life dimensions were within hundredths of millimeters of the measurements in the natural-diamond report, the GIA noted.
“This unfortunate situation demonstrates why it is important, especially in any transaction where the buyer does not have a trusted relationship with the seller, to have the diamond-grading report updated before completing a purchase,” said Tom Moses, the GIA’s executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer.
The GIA blotted out the counterfeit inscription and inscribed a report number for a new certificate that it issued, adding the term “laboratory-grown” on the girdle, as is its practice.
In February, the institute reported that it had received a number of lab-grown or treated stones carrying natural reports and fake inscriptions.
BBB National Programs’ National Advertising Division (NAD) has recommended that Diamond Foundry modify some of its advertising, to better communicate that its diamonds were grown in a lab.
Diamond Foundry—which just disclosed it has raised $200 million in funding in an SEC filing—said it will comply with the recommendations. The Santa Clara, Calif.–based company manufactures and sells lab-grown diamonds through an office in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, and via e-tail subsidiary Vrai.
In its decision, released March 30, the NAD, responding to a complaint from the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), found that certain Diamond Foundry and Vrai ads could “create confusion” about the origin of their diamonds.
In particular, the NAD took issue with some of Diamond Foundry’s and Vrai’s social media ads and posts, which label its products as “diamonds” without accompanying modifiers or descriptors.
The NAD advised Diamond Foundry to make “clear and conspicuous disclosures [about the diamonds’ origin] immediately preceding, with equal conspicuousness, the word diamond,” as prescribed by the Federal Trade Commission’s Guides for the Jewelry Industry.
It also recommended that Diamond Foundry and Vrai not describe products as “created diamonds,” “diamonds created aboveground,” “sustainably created,” “sustainably grown,” and “world positive,” as those terms “do not sufficiently communicate that the diamonds are laboratory-grown.”
The NAD acknowledged that the Diamond Foundry and Vrai sites feature “clear messaging” about their diamonds’ origin, citing the slogan “Just diamond. No mining.” Yet it warned that consumers “may not be exposed to that general messaging.”
The group also expressed concern about a webpage where Diamond Foundry called its diamonds “real.”
The company should “discontinue social media claims that its LGDs are ‘real’ diamonds or modify the claims to make clear that its LGDs are not mined diamonds,” the NAD said. “[W]ithout context explaining that ‘real’ diamonds are created in a laboratory and not mined, consumers may reasonably take away the unsupported message that Diamond Foundry’s diamonds are mined diamonds.”
The NAD did swat down the NDC’s objection to the term Diamond Foundry–created. That term, it said, is “not misleading.”
It’s somewhat surprising that NDC objected to that particular phrase, as [manufacturer name]-created is one of three descriptors the FTC recommends in its Guides. The other two are laboratory-grown and laboratory-created.
The NAD noted that nothing in its decision precludes Diamond Foundry from using the phrase diamonds created aboveground if it appears in a context that clearly discloses the diamonds are man-made. It can also use the phrase world positive “if it is tied to a specific benefit or feature of Diamond Foundry’s LGDs, when accurately disclosing the diamonds’ origin,” it said.
Diamond Foundry said it will heed the NAD’s counsel “out of respect for the self-regulatory process.” It also told the NAD it disagreed with certain aspects of its decision.
The company added: “We are pleased with NAD’s observation that ‘Diamond Foundry’s advertising on its website is replete with clear messaging as to the man-made nature of its diamonds and often plainly contrasts its products with mined diamonds…in advertising for both the Diamond Foundry manufacturing brand and the Vrai retail brand.’ ”
This is not the first time Diamond Foundry has faced controversies about its advertising.
In 2019, the FTC sent warning letters to Diamond Foundry and seven other companies about how they described their diamonds.
“The FTC staff is concerned that some of your advertising fails to conform to the Jewelry Guides and therefore may deceive consumers,” read its letter to Diamond Foundry. “The term aboveground real diamonds does not clearly and conspicuously disclose that the diamonds are laboratory-created.”
Prior to that, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee complained of fuzzy descriptors in Diamond Foundry’s collaborations with Barneys New York and Jennifer Fisher.
“There have been prior warnings,” says JVC president and CEO Tiffany Stevens. “In the digital environment we’re in, it’s particularly important that advertising be truthful and accurate. We know there is continued interest from the FTC in looking at advertising practices in the jewelry sector.”
David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council, which has said it is taking a less confrontational stance toward lab-grown gems, tells JCK that while the group’s focus remains on promoting natural diamonds, it does seek “to protect the integrity of our industry on behalf of the businesses and tens of millions of employees, their families, and communities whose livelihoods depend upon diamonds and diamond jewelry. Unfortunately, this means that from time to time we need to raise issues of concern and seek resolution and remedy through appropriate channels.”
In related news, Diamond Foundry is being sued in Canadian court by Ofer Mizrahi Diamonds (OM), for allegedly poaching its people and stealing its secrets.
The complaint, filed March 16 in the Supreme Court of British Columbia, charged that, in August 2019, one of OM’s Canadian employees left the company for a position as vice president of Diamond Foundry. Four other OM employees subsequently joined her, it said.
According to the complaint, the move may have violated the woman’s employee agreement, which forbade her from accepting a job with a competitor, or inducing other employees to leave for six months after her departure. OM is part owner of Green Rocks, a lab-grown diamond company.
The complaint alleged that the ex-employees gave Diamond Foundry access to OM’s customer database as well as other confidential information. It charged breach of contract, unjust enrichment, and other counts, and seeks $5 million in damages.
Diamond Foundry tells JCK, “We’re proud of our sales team and while they may be the envy of others, our attorneys do not see any merit in the claims made.”
GIA’s grading lab recently detected “a number” of diamonds that had counterfeit GIA inscriptions on their girdles.
“This is not the first time we have seen this,” says spokesperson Stephen Morisseau. “But recently we have seen a number of stones with fake inscriptions.”
According to GIA, the diamonds were submitted for updated reports or verification services, but their qualities did not match the GIA reports associated with the inscriptions, which turned out to be counterfeit. The diamonds in question were either lab-grown or treated naturals; the reports connected to the fake inscriptions were for non-treated or natural diamonds.
In one example, a diamond was submitted with an inscription that indicated it was a 1.5 ct. natural diamond, E VVS2, type I, with an excellent cut grade. In actuality, the diamond was lab-grown, 1.51 cts., D VVS2, type IIa, with a very good cut grade.
“It [was] clear that these are two different diamonds,” the GIA said in a statement, even if “the weights and grading parameters of the original and newly submitted diamonds were close to each other.”
In these cases, the GIA overwrote the counterfeit inscription with an X, and inscribed the girdle with a new report number and, when applicable, the word lab-grown. It then issued a new, accurate report, noting the diamond’s treatment or non-natural origin.
So who is doing this? “Obviously, we know who submitted them,” says Morisseau. “But we are not making any statement about patterns, or types of stones, or [submission] locations.”
The statement added: “These instances of attempted fraud highlight why it is important, especially in any transaction where the buyer does not have a trusted relationship with the seller, to have the diamond grading report updated prior to completing a purchase.”
The statement noted that GIA’s client agreement gives it the option of notifying the “submitting client, law enforcement, and the public” about any instance of purported fraud. However, Morisseau says he cannot comment on how GIA is handling these instances.
It is a violation of the Federal Trade Commission’s Guides for the Jewelry Industry to pass off a lab-grown diamond as natural without clearly and conspicuously disclosing its origin. LINK to article
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NOVEMBER 19, 2020
WWD. Online Magazine Says
● Consumers and retailers seeking a value ratio and eco-friendliness are creating momentum for lab-grown stones, despite pushback from the diamond mining industry.
BY MISTY WHITE SIDELL,
Lab-grown diamonds continue to grow in popularity and awareness with consumers, according to new research. A report issued today by MVI Marketing says the cultivated stones are “poised to reach mass market status,” with more than 50 percent of independent jewelers in the U.S. expected to stock the stones in time for this holiday season.
This information comes despite the world’s top diamond mining firms’ efforts this year to promote natural diamonds through their joint lobbyist venture, the Natural Diamond Council. MVI Marketing’s report notes that general household awareness of lab-grown stones now stands at about 80 percent, up from 58 percent in 2018. The stones are poised to take additional market share in the coming months — particularly for their value ratio. “Consumers are most drawn to the size-to-value equation. Shopping within a budget, as most consumers do, when shown both mined and lab-grown diamonds, the bigger stone of the same quality in lab-grown diamond appears to be the winning proposition for most couples getting engaged.
Eco-friendliness is the icing on their diamond cake, especially for Millennials,” said Marty Hurwitz, chief executive officer of MVI Marketing, which has tracked lab-grown diamonds since 2004. Lab-grown diamonds offer consumers an average of 30 percent value for price and size, compared with natural stones, the survey said. Hurwitz added that 95 percent of lab-grown diamond retailers report better profit margins with lab stones than natural diamonds (between 16 to 40-plus percent) — a crucial source of revenue during this challenging economic period.
While some jewelers may feel attached to the romantic notion of naturally sourced stones, Hurwitz advised otherwise. “Jewelers have to make a profit and hanging onto one product that sells love may not be a good idea. Rather retailers should present consumers with a choice of both mined and lab-grown diamonds, and make money with the products consumers see as love,” he said. The stones are most popular with younger consumers (aged 25 to 35) whose response to lab grown diamonds was “overwhelmingly positive,” while other age groups were more skeptical — with 46- to 55-year-olds having the lowest opinion of the stones.
Hurwitz advised jewelers to pay more attention to the younger age group’s opinions, since they are the market that is getting engaged. The survey noted a fledging interest in larger lab stones, measuring from two to three carats in weight. As told to WWD in October, Lightbox — De Beers’ lab diamond subsidiary — is now in the process of developing larger lab stones. Currently, the company only offers lab diamonds up to one carat in weight.
Lightbox’s new Oregon manufacturing facility, opened last month, is ramping up production — expected to produce 200,000 carats of polished diamonds a year. The company has teamed with Blue Nile — among the U.S.’ largest online jewelry stores — on distribution of its lab diamonds, marking one of the biggest retailers to include lab grown stones in its assortment. “We have been thinking pretty hard about [lab diamonds], talking to consumers about how they could or would fit into our brand and our merchandise strategy,” said Blue Nile ceo Sean Kell. “We decided that the trend is not going away — these are beautiful stones and the quality and availability of stones has improved dramatically, even over the last year or so. It made sense to us to dip our toe into market.”
WWD online article
You are working to have your diamonds certified as sustainably produced by SCS Global Systems. [Note: This standard can be seen here and is now open to both natural and lab-grown diamonds.]
This sustainability certification is near and dear to my heart. It’s one of the reasons I stepped into this role, because I thought it could be a game changer for the overall diamond category. WD is on track to be the first company certified through SCS, which is a milestone, not just for our brand but also the entire industry, because that is what consumers expect. They vote with their wallet, and people want to know what they’re buying, where it comes from, and they understand the impact that it has on the world. So this is a major accomplishment for us.
Your previous CEO admitted that growing diamonds takes a large amount of energy. How has that affected your ability to be certified as sustainable?
We were evaluated under 15 core environmental impact categories that SCS has as a baseline. We’re working toward zero impact for all environmental and human health impact. We’re working toward achieving full climate neutrality. Do we use a lot of electricity? Yes. But, there are ways to improve. Once you judge yourself and once you give yourself a report card, you then have the ability to start doing things to improve the impacts that you’re having on the world. So the first thing is to give yourself a baseline, and that was done by SCS. They have exhaustively audited our facility, our supply chain, and our chain of custody. We are going to use the most advanced empirical testing technology available to provide provenance signature and gem identification matching, so we will establish 99% accuracy for the provenance of our diamond.
It’s not been easy. We have been working on this since, I believe, January. We’ve opened our books and opened our kimono to say, these are all the things that we’re doing, tell us how we can get better. That’s where it all starts and that’s what consumers want to hear. They want to hear that companies are being transparent about who they are, how they operate, and the impact they have on the world. entire article....
One of the most well-known contemporary examples of a nickname entering the official jewelry vocabulary is when diamond line bracelets became tennis bracelets after Chris Evert dropped hers on the court while playing in the 1978 U.S. Open.
During the 1920s, rectangular shaped diamonds were designated as emerald-cut diamonds because the shape was a popular one for emeralds. It was also a new shape for diamonds that was achieved with advancements in diamond cutting. The name “emerald-cut diamond” has stuck despite the fact that it feels like a misnomer.
It’s not a coincidence that both of these examples are related to diamonds. The gem has gone through more changes in terminology over the years than any other area in the jewelry field. One reason for the steady evolution stems from the fact that diamonds are such an important ingredient in fine jewelry. “Diamonds are the common denominator of jewelry,” is how Nicola Bulgari succinctly explained it to me when I was interviewing him for my book Diamonds: A Century of Spectacular.
One of the watershed moments in modern diamond terminology happened in the early 1940s when the 4Cs concept was launched by the Gemological Institute of America’s founder Robert M. Shipley. The master gemologist came up with the mnemonic aid to help people have a better understanding of the qualities a gem is judged by: cut, clarity, color and carat weight. Needless to say, the idea caught on.
Diamond grading as we know it today was another program invented by the GIA. In 1953, a team of gemologists lead by Richard T. Liddicoat came up with a color scale for diamonds ranging from D to Z. People often wonder why the best color grade is “D” as opposed to “A.” The answer relates to the color scale it replaced. Gems were once unsystematically graded A, AA and AAA. The new set of letters beginning with D moved far away from that. Somewhat counterintuitively, the thinking at the GIA was to begin with a letter for the best quality that had a negative connotation so it wouldn’t be misused.
Today, diamond terminology is being updated again. Diamonds mined from the earth have been rechristened natural diamonds. Promotion of the name change is being spearheaded by the Natural Diamond Council, a group formerly known as the Diamond Producers Association (DPA), that is composed of seven diamond producers: Alrosa, De Beers, Dominion, Lucara, Murowa Diamonds, Petra and Rio Tinto.
It was a story that the industry had long feared, but perhaps knew would eventually come.
The unwelcome wake-up call aired on Thursday’s episode of Good Morning America. The ABC news show ran a segment featuring a consumer who bought a diamond that she thought was natural, but turned out to be lab-grown.
According to the show, Molly Carlson bought her diamond engagement ring at an unnamed “jewelry store at a local mall.”
“I took it to another jewelry store, and I said, ‘What can you tell me about my ring?’ ” she said. “And they told me, ‘Well, I can tell you, it’s not a natural diamond.’ ”
“Turns out, Molly’s dream diamond was actually a diamond created in a lab,” said reporter Amy Robach.
“[The salesperson mentioned] the style, the, color, and the clarity,” said Molly’s fiancé, Scott Long. “But never once, this is lab.”
The show pointed out that that the Federal Trade Commission’s Jewelry Guides say that retailers must clearly and conspicuously tell customers if their diamond is man-made. full article
To grow diamonds, you need a lot of heat and pressure. And now, we’re seeing that on the legal front as well.
On Friday, the High Court of Singapore ruled that diamond grower IIa Technologies had infringed on a patent (SG 872) held by De Beers’ industrial diamond division, Element Six.
The patent relates to the production of diamonds using the chemical vapor deposition method.
In her 199-page ruling, which followed a trial and four years of litigation, Justice Valerie Thean ordered IIa—whose diamonds are sold by sister company Pure Grown Diamonds—to cease producing any items that infringe on Element Six’s CVD growing patent. read article
On Thursday, the Carnegie Institution of Washington and M7D Corp.—the legal name of WD Lab Grown Diamonds—sued six created-diamond companies for allegedly violating Carnegie’s patents for growing and enhancing diamonds with the chemical vapor deposition method.
The suits, filed yesterday in Southern District of New York federal court, target three pairs of related lab-grown diamond companies: Pure Grown Diamonds, based in New York City; IIa Technologies, based in Singapore; Fenix Diamonds, based in New York City, Mahendra Brothers, based in India; and ALTR Inc. and R.A. Riam Group, both based in New York City.
The three suits, which use similar language and make similar claims, allege that that the companies are infringing on two Carnegie Institution patents, to which M7D holds the license.
The first, patent number 6,858,078, issued in February 2005, lays out a method for producing CVD diamonds using a microwave-plasma process. The second, patent, RE41189, reissued in April 2010, covers a method for improving a diamond’s visual qualities using high-pressure, high-temperature treatment, a process sometimes called annealing. Diamonds grown with chemical vapor deposition that haven’t been treated are known as “as-grown.”
According to the three complaints, the patents at issue are “well-known in the lab-grown diamond industry and in particular are well-known by lab-grown diamond manufacturers, importers, and sellers.”
The plaintiffs seek an injunction against the production of any allegedly infringing products and that M7D and Carnegie receive a “reasonable royalty” from any past sales of infringing products.
“We are very serious about protecting our rights and our investment,” WD’s chief executive officer Sue Rechner, who was appointed in September, tells JCK. “The decision to start litigation is not one any company takes lightly. It’s typically a last resort. We don’t want to go into litigation, but if we must, we must. We are adamant that our intellectual property be respected.” more
In 2018, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) concluded a major overhaul of its Jewelry Guides, including its recommendations on lab-grown diamonds. Many in the lab-grown community, with some validity, hailed the changes as a major victory.
And yet, in the months since, some have gotten “creative” with their interpretations of the new Guides, says Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) president and CEO Tiffany Stevens. A year after the overhaul, the FTC sent eight companies that sell lab-grown diamonds and diamond simulants letters about their marketing, warning their advertisements could possibly “deceive” consumers.
Which is why it’s important to review what the FTC Guides do—and don’t—say:
In perhaps the most commented-upon change, the FTC removed the word natural from the definition of a diamond. “It is no longer accurate to define diamonds as ‘natural’ when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds,” the FTC wrote, explaining the change.
That has led some to insist that the FTC has declared “a diamond is a diamond.” While that’s a possible interpretation of the change, the commission never used that particular wording. Under the new FTC Guides—just like the old ones—the unadorned word diamond can still refer only to a natural, mined gem. That means disclosure remains a requirement for non-natural diamonds.
“Marketers still need to make those disclosures [if they are not selling] a mined diamond,” says Reenah L. Kim, staff attorney for the FTC’s enforcement division, who worked on the revamp. Furthermore, the disclosures need to be clear and conspicuous—and the closer the disclosure comes to the claim, the better.
“Some advertisers reveal the true nature of their products behind vague hyperlinks, in an FAQ section, or on an ‘education’ page,” wrote the FTC in a June blog post. “That won’t do. Consumers could easily overlook the information because it’s not close to the product description.”
Marketers even have to be careful on social media. If the only descriptor comes in a hashtag (#labgrown), that could be misleading, the FTC says.
So how should companies describe lab-grown diamonds? The FTC recommends the terms laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, and [manufacturer name]-created. It has okayed use of the word cultured, but manufacturers need to use other descriptive or qualifying language.
The term synthetic was once on that list of recommendations, but it was removed with this revision. However, contrary to some assertions, synthetic hasn’t been prohibited; some lab-grown companies currently use it in their marketing.
The new guides do give marketers leeway to use other descriptors “if they clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone.” But that doesn’t mean marketers can call their diamonds whatever they want. For instance, in the warning letters it sent out in June, the FTC cautioned against using the descriptors aboveground and real diamonds created in America, which it felt “[do] not clearly and conspicuously disclose that the diamonds are laboratory-created.”
“As a federal agency, [the FTC is] always balancing consumer protection against free speech,” Stevens said on “The Jewelry District,” JCK’s podcast. “They wanted to give a little more of that free speech breathing room. Their line of thinking is, ‘Let’s open this up. And if anyone steps over the line, we’ll slap them down.’ Which they did.”
Stevens thinks the safest bet is that companies stick to the three recommended descriptors. “That fourth category is a little unknown,” she says.
The FTC—as well as the world of gemology—has always been clear that a simulant, or simulated diamond, may look like a real gemstone but has a different chemical composition. Moissanite, cubic zirconia, and YAG are examples of simulants. Partial-diamond hybrids are also considered simulants.
A lab-grown diamond is chemically the same as a natural diamond, but it’s grown by a machine rather than beneath the surface of the earth.
In its warning letters, the FTC charged that some marketers were deliberately fudging the difference between the two. It warned companies to “avoid describing [simulants] in a way that may falsely imply that they have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties of mined diamonds.”
Among the descriptors the FTC singled out in its warning letters: lab-created DiamondAura and contemporary Nexus diamond. It has said that the terms lab-created and lab-grown should be used only for products that have “essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as the stone named.” For simulants, it recommends the terms imitation or simulated.
Another common misconception is that the FTC is not allowing mined diamonds to be called natural or real. Those terms are still allowed, but only for diamonds that come from the earth.
The FTC did, however, warn that those terms can’t be used in a misleading context. “It would be deceptive to use the terms real, genuine, natural, or synthetic to imply that a lab-grown diamond (i.e., a product with essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as a mined diamond) is not, in fact, an actual diamond,” it wrote.
The FTC’s Green Guides have long warned against what it calls “general environmental benefit” claims, like eco-friendly and sustainable. read more
Laura Sipe couldn’t believe her eyes. In February, the owner of J.C. Sipe Jewelers in Indianapolis was readying an I-color lab-grown diamond for a customer. She had always heard that lab-growns fluoresce differently under ultraviolet light, so she decided to take out her UV lamp and check for herself.
When she removed the stone, it was no longer an I. It was gray. And she “freaked out.”
She called up her vendor, who was just as surprised. “One person in the office said she had heard of something like this. She said the diamond turned purple and then it reverted back.”
Sipe’s diamond indeed returned to its original color the next day. She still told the vendor to take it back.
If a customer saw that, “that would freak everyone out,” she says. “Including us.” She hasn’t had that happen to any stone since.
What brings this up is this week’s announcement that Gemological Science International saw something similar at its lab this summer.
A 2 ct. diamond grown with the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) method transformed from near-colorless to slightly blue (pictured) after a few minutes’ exposure to short-wave UV radiation in a DiamondView machine.
“It was a dramatic change,” says chief information officer Nicholas DelRe. “I thought I was seeing things.”
The diamond retained the blue tinge when it was tucked into parcel papers and only returned to its original hue after two and a half hours in the sun. (Typically, the color reverts after about a half hour of exposure to sunlight.)
Lab-grown diamonds are disrupting the jewellery industry with their sustainability credentials and prices. Here's what you need to know.
29 May 2019 by RACHAEL TAYLOR
What are the benefits of lab-grown diamonds?
As well as significant savings that allow you to reduce your budget or supersize your diamond, part of the allure of lab-grown is a supply chain that promises no human rights violations and less environmental damage. Though a recent report – funded by a collective of diamond miners – has suggested that the high temperatures required to create lab-grown diamonds cause a larger carbon footprint than mined diamonds, prompting the US Federal Trade Commission to send letters to eight companies warning them off describing the gems as eco-friendly. more...
Last week, at the urging of a commenter, I looked into Kay’s and Jared’s policy for lab-grown diamond upgrades and trade-ins, now that both of those chains are selling them. Suffice it to say, it’s not the same as for naturals. Here’s Jared’s:
Our diamond trade-in and upgrade services allow you to take any diamond jewelry (excluding lab-created diamonds) you no longer wear and trade it in for a brand new one.
Kay’s site has similar language. And so does one of the biggest lab-grown diamond sellers online, Brilliant Earth.
Lab-grown manufacturer Diamond Foundry has traditionally touted its “forever 100% value guarantee”, which “guarantee[s] the value of your diamond forever” with a “free lifetime upgrade.” At press time, JCK could not find the guarantee still listed on its site. The company did not respond to requests for comment about the guarantee’s current status.
This is a thorny issue for the lab-grown diamond world. Given that technology cheapens over time, and created-diamond production isn’t limited by nature, most believe that synthetic prices will drop. In fact, that process has already started, with prices falling over the last year despite a clear spike in demand. (Natural diamond prices have fallen recently, too, though not as much.) Last December, Diamond Foundry announced that it was setting its diamonds at 55% below the Rapaport list. A vendor just approached me on LinkedIn, promising prices 78%–89% below Rap.
Retail prices are falling, too. Analyst Paul Zimnisky estimates they have dropped an average of 20%–30% since the beginning of the year. In January, a 2.01 ct. J SI2 very good–cut lab-grown with an IGI report sold for $6,800 on Brilliant Earth. Recently, a lab-grown with similar specs was being sold on the site for about $3,000.
Which may explain why some sellers are skittish about trade-ins. Though not all are.
Both Ada Diamonds and MiaDonna offer lab-grown upgrades, though they require the purchaser spend a certain price on the new stone—one and one-half times the original in Ada’s case and two times in MiaDonna’s. That isn’t unusual; many traditional sellers have similar policies.
And while it seems an exception, Wisconsin chain Kesslers Diamonds offers the same trade-in policy for lab-growns as it does for naturals—with no minimums.
If the approaches here seem all over the map, they point to a larger issue: Do lab-grown diamonds have resale value? Many in the mined world maintain they don’t.
There is a secondary market for lab diamonds, though it’s still a small one. (Which makes sense, as the category is still small.) Ada Diamonds has had a buyback program since May 2018. This year saw the launch of a somewhat-mysterious site, We Buy Lab Diamonds. And, of course, you can sell anything on eBay.
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Six lab-grown diamond companies and retailers have signed up for a pilot program that will audit their environmental, social, and governance performance against preset criteria.
If they pass, their diamonds will be certified by SCS Global Services as sustainably grown, though it’s possible that label will change.
Only individual diamonds will bear the certification, after they have been tracked and traced from grower to the retailer. So, for example, it’s possible a ring’s center stone will carry the the SCS certification, while its side stones won’t. (Just like a center stone sometimes carries a GIA report, while its side stones don’t.)
The pilot, commissioned by the newly formed Lab-Grown Diamond Council, will involve four growers—Green Rocks, Goldiam USA, Lusix, and WD Lab Grown—as well as two retailers, Helzberg Diamonds and Swarovski.
The news comes after the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in April warned eight lab-grown diamond sellers against using general environmental benefit claims, like eco-friendly and sustainable, which are prohibited by the the agency’s Green Guides.
Interestingly, none of the lab-grown diamond sellers that were cautioned by the FTC are participating in the pilot program. In fact, most of the participating companies have shied away from making eco claims in the past.
“These are companies that want to do the right thing,” says Stanley Mathuram, vice president for SCS, which has also worked with Brilliant Earth and the Responsible Jewellery Council. “The message they are giving now is, ‘We support sustainability, and here are our practices to prove it.’ This won’t be just about how these companies compare to mined diamonds. It’s about each company’s own practices and how they measure up to a transparent standard.”
While Diamond Foundry has been certified carbon-neutral by Natural Capital Partners, this new standard goes beyond that toward “climate neutrality,” Mathuram says.
“It’s not just that we measure your electrical footprint and then you buy offsets,” says Mathuram. “It may be looking at ways to reduce electricity use. This is going beyond carbon-neutral and looking at a multitude of issues. We will also be looking at black carbon, ozone, and methane, and other pollutants that are hot-button topics for climate. We are talking about water, we are talking about solvents, we are talking about chemicals.”
It will also monitor the companies that cut the diamonds and make sure they adhere to existing labor and safety standards. read entire article
Diamond Foundry Signs Power-Full Factory Deal
On June 6, San Francisco gem grower Diamond Foundry inked a deal with a Washington state public utility that will enable its “megacarat” production facility to operate at full capacity by March 2020.
The agreement with the Chelan County Public Utility District (PUD) calls for the construction of a new energy substation that will meet the Wenatchee, Wash., facility’s power needs.
Located in a former fruit warehouse, the facility is expected to grow as many as 1 million carats a year at full capacity. The company also plans to keep growing diamonds in San Francisco.
A joint statement provided a rare glimpse at the amount of power that’s needed to grow diamonds in a lab. The factory will require up to 19 megawatts of power—about what’s used to power an estimated 14,250 to 19,000 American homes, according to California’s department of energy, or, by another calculation, about 11,000 homes in the Pacific Northwest.
The factory’s energy mix will be 98.46% hydropower, with less than 2% of energy from other sources, says Kimberlee Craig, PUD spokesperson.
Transitioning to mostly hydropower will help the company maintain a zero-carbon footprint, the statement said.
As far as other possible ecological impact, the company declined to estimate the factory’s anticipated water usage. “We do not have that information,” says director of public relations and communications Ye-Hui Goldenson.
The PUD lacked the capacity to meet Diamond Foundry’s power needs at its location, requiring the construction of the substation. While that typically takes 18 months, this project is slated to be completed in less than a year because of the factory’s anticipated economic benefit to the local community: It’s expected to bring between 35 and 50 jobs to the area.
“We are a customer-owned utility,” explains Craig. “We are following the direction of our customer-owners, who want us to use our resources to help support the economy.”
When it publicly debuted in 2015, Diamond Foundry announced it had raised $100 million from a range of investors, including actor Leonardo DiCaprio, a group of Silicon Valley billionaires, and firms such as Obvious Ventures. more
In an interview this week, executives at WD Diamonds said they believe that certain competitors are infringing on the company’s licensed patents for growing diamonds using chemical vapor deposition (CVD)—and they might take some retailers to court over it.
Since 2011, WD has licensed the diamond-growing technology developed by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, which has an ownership stake in the company.
“What Carnegie did is they established the conditions that you could [grow diamonds] to a reasonable size,” says WD president and founder Clive Hill. “That is patented. We [believe] that you cannot grow CVD outside those conditions.”’
Carnegie’s portfolio of patents also involve post-growth treatment of CVDs using annealing.
While WD has sent warning letters in the past, Hill says it is now taking its efforts to a new, “more significant” level.
“We have sat down and assessed possible costs,” says Hill. “If we have to end up in court, we will end up there.… We have spent a lot of money on this. We are working with [law firm] Perkins Coie. Within a very short period of time we will start some action with some retailers.”
Among the companies it has in its sights: big retailers, manufacturers of growing equipment, and a few smaller players.
“Hopefully we can pick one or two, and people will cooperate with us a bit better,” he says. “We want to work with people. That is our modus operandi. But we want it to be fair. I don’t think that’s unreasonable. We think that retailers, particularly the significant retailers, will want to make sure that happens.”
The company is now able to pursue this avenue because of the capital infusion it received from Detroit-based private equity firm Huron Capital Partners .
Huron senior partner Michael Beauregard says that WD isn’t trying to limit supply in the market and that it will consider licensing or other arrangements.
“What we would like to do is supply those retailers that we haven’t been supplying,” he says. “The goal is not to create hostilities. The goal is to be able to sell this company’s technology to more customers. There are several retailers that are good and viable customer prospects for this company that have chosen some or part of their product flow to come from parties that have been infringing, in our opinion, on one or more of the patents. They are going to be made aware of that.”
The company is initially targeting retailers, rather than the companies that produce the diamonds, because “we can’t necessarily trace diamonds back to the source,” says Michael Zukas, vice president of private equity for Huron and a WD director. “But we can buy from a retailer and test those diamonds from the retailers and [allege], ‘this is a violation.’
“We have invested in our partnership with Carnegie and the technology that we are licensing,” he says, “and we want to make sure that the playing field is fair and we want to make sure the investment is protected.”
While WD stayed mum on possible targets, JCKreached out to other CVD diamond producers for comment. Diamond Foundry chief executive officer Martin Roscheisen responded via email: “We have invested years of research and development to take the technology for growing high-quality diamond to a distinctly new level. Our proprietary intellectual property stands on its own.” Singapore-based IIA Technologies, which is currently in a patent dispute with Element Six, did not return a request for comment. The agreed purchase of Scio Diamond has suggested that other companies are infringing on itspatents. more
Three of the letters were sent to companies that exclusively sell lab-grown diamonds—Ada Diamonds, Diamond Foundry, and Pure Grown Diamonds—and the other five were sent to companies that sell diamond simulants—Agape Diamonds, Diamond Nexus, MiaDonna & Co., Stauer, and Timepieces International. Some of the simulant sellers, including MiaDonna and Stauer, also sell lab-grown diamonds.
The letters to the three lab-grown diamond companies advised that sellers of man-made gems should clearly and conspicuously disclose their stones’ origin. The Diamond Foundry and Pure Grown letters cautioned against using non-FTC-recommended terminology, such as “real diamonds created in California” and “above Earth diamonds.”
Kohm acknowledged in the letters that the companies all had portions of their websites that disclosed that their diamonds did not come from a mine. But “consumers could easily overlook” that, he said. Two of the letters also suggested that solely including a #labgrown hashtag may not be considered sufficient disclosure in a social media post.
The FTC also cautioned the companies not to make “unqualified general environmental benefit claims”—such as using terms like environmentally friendly and sustainable—”because it is highly unlikely that they can substantiate all reasonable interpretations of these claims.”
While there are differences of opinion on the environmental impact of man-made versus mined diamonds, the FTC does not seem to be endorsing any side of that argument. It is simply cautioning companies against using those terms and making those broad overarching claims.
Ada Diamonds said it had settled the matter. Diamond Foundry did not return a request for comment says it “prides itself” on being a lab diamond producer that “has worked collaboratively with the FTC for years.” Pure Grown Diamonds declined comment.
The letters to the five simulant sellers said that retailers of those stones should “avoid describing their products in a way that may falsely imply that they have the same optical, physical, and chemical properties of mined diamonds.” (Simulants are look-alikes, such as cubic zirconia, which do not have the same chemical makeup as diamonds, whether natural or lab-grown.)
The letters mentioned Agape’s use of its diamondslabcreated.com as its web address; Diamond Nexus’ use of contemporary Nexus Diamond; Stauer’s use of lab-created DiamondAura; and Timepieces International’s use of diamondeau.
As with the lab-grown companies, Kohm’s letter acknowledged that the companies’ sites have sections that identify the products as simulants. But he again noted that consumers might overlook them.
The letters to the simulant companies, except for Timepieces, also cited their environmental benefit claims.
Stauer president Michael Bisceglia says his company is in the process of changing its site.
“We think the FTC comments were helpful and more than fair,” he says. “We sell mined diamonds, lab diamonds, and diamond simulants, and it was helpful to have that additional clarity.”
MiaDonna chief executive officer Anna-Mieke Anderson tells JCK via email that her company has “spoken to the FTC directly in response and they are satisfied with the verbiage adjustments and additions we will be making to language describing the technology options we offer—especially in regard to the Diamond Hybrid simulant we offer. Our lab-grown diamonds and gemstones do not fall into this same category, but I welcome anything we can do to improve and evolve as an industry while helping to educate the consumer.”
Brittany Bozmoski, chief marketing officer of Forever Companies, parent company of Diamond Nexus Labs, emails: “Forever Companies is an open book with our customers, as well as the FTC, and are happy to benefit from the feedback of both. We’re delighted with every opportunity to educate consumers and regulators about how our products compare to mined diamonds in look, durability, cost, chemistry, and environmental impact. ” more
From the JCK, December 10, 2018 By Rob Bates
"Production of lab-grown diamonds has risen dramatically and will continue to do so, though their prices will likely continue to fall, said a new report from Bain & Co.
The report produced for the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, estimates current lab-grown gem production at 2 million cts. a year, with the majority of that under 0.18 cts. It estimates that production is currently growing at 15–20 percent annually.
It reports that it costs $300–$500 per ct. to produce a CVD lab-grown diamond, compared with $4,000 per ct. in 2008. It calculates that the retail price of gem-quality lab-grown diamonds has fallen by about half in the past two years, while wholesale prices have fallen threefold. It forecasts that trend will continue as efficiencies increase, new competitors enter the market, and the product gets “commoditized” like natural diamonds.
“Lab-grown diamonds are clearly here to stay,” the report says, pointing to De Beers’ entrance into the market and the Federal Trade Commission’s decision to remove the word natural from its definition of diamond.
“Given the pace of declining production costs and wholesale and retail prices,” it adds, “we expect lab-grown stones to become accessible to a wider consumer audience.”
However, in the short- and medium-term, it says that the man-made market will be constrained by limits on manufacturing capability, funding, and access to technology and intellectual property.
A lot depends on how much consumers embrace the product. It suggests three possible scenarios for how this could play out: In the first, customers no longer perceive a difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds except for the highest-quality stones. In the second, the natural segment does differentiate itself, perhaps by limiting lab-growns to the fashion category. The third is “some combination of the two,” where naturals are differentiated in every category but low-end stones.
Regarding natural diamonds, the report estimates that diamond jewelry sales rose an unimpressive 2 percent in 2017, but suggests that this year’s number may be higher, led by strong U.S. demand. It forecasts continued growth in the diamond jewelry market, though it warns that a protracted trade war between China and the United States could hurt consumer confidence in both countries.
Rough diamond production spiked 19 percent in 2017 to reach 151 million cts., ending an eight-year trend of flat output. Yet, last year may represent the “pinnacle” of rough diamond production, and the report expects that the mine output going forward will be “flat at best” as existing mines get depleted.
Both rough and polished diamond prices trended up during the first half of 2018, by 3 and 2 percent, respectively, though last year the price of polished fell 3 percent.
Profitability in the midstream—dealers and manufacturers—equaled about 1–3 percent. India continues to dominate the cutting and polishing segment, manufacturing more than 90 percent of world production, with its market share continually growing."
uly 30, 2018 by ROB BATES
"Traditional diamond organizations said they were disappointed at the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) overhaul of its Jewelry Guides—even as man-made diamond companies cheered.
In its latest revision announced last week, the FTC made a number of changes to its traditional guidance regarding both lab-grown diamonds and diamonds in general. It removed the word natural from the definition of a diamond; allowed new descriptors for lab-grown gems as long as they clearly describe the product as not mined; said that implying lab-grown stones are not real could be deceptive; deleted the word synthetic from its list of approved lab-grown descriptors; and okayed the previously forbidden word gemstone to describe man-made stones.
The Guides still mandate clear disclosure of lab-grown diamonds, FTC attorney Reenah L. Kim said in an interview with JCK last week.
In a statement, World Federation of Diamond Bourses president Ernest Blom complained the new Guides show “too much of a bias” toward the lab-grown sector and noted they diverge from the Diamond Guidelines agreed to by his organization and other groups.
“Our paramount aim is always consumer confidence, and the revision has the potential to cause a degree of confusion,” he said. “[Allowing lab-grown companies to use new descriptors] might provide too much latitude in their marketing claims.”
Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, arced that the change in the diamond definition “focus[es] on physical properties instead of scarcity and value differentiation, which are key factors in product definition and vital for consumer protection.” CONTINUE READING
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What are Synthetic Diamonds? Gemological Institute Report, 1/5/2018 read
DIAMONDS / TECHNOLOGY
Synthetic Diamond Bears Fake Inscription Matching Natural Report
November 13, 2017 by ROB BATES
In an episode that has frightening implications for an industry trying to keep its diamonds distinguished, a synthetic round diamond was recently submitted to GIA’s gem lab with a phony inscription meant to identify it as natural.
According to a GIA Lab Note, its Carlsbad, Calif., laboratory recently took in a 1.76 ct. F VS1 excellent cut round. It bore an inscription (pictured) for a GIA report issued in 2015, which was meant for a 1.74 ct. D VVS1 natural untreated stone.
GIA’s screening process, however, determined that the stone needed additional testing. Further research showed the stone was grown by HPHT.
“Rarely do we encounter the type of blatant fraud described here,” said note authors Christopher M. Breeding and Troy Ardon, adding, “We believe the submitting client noticed inconsistencies with the GIA report information and sent it to the lab for an updated report.”
This is not the first time the trade has seen this kind of episode. In 2016, man-made diamonds sold with natural reports—advertised as such—were discovered on Asian website Alibaba."
Photo courtesy of GIA, credit: Tony Ardon Link to article
Lab-Grown Diamonds Become a Bandwagon
November 16, 2017 by ROB BATES
"Yes, many in the industry remain wary of lab-grown diamonds, and events like this week’s report of a fake GIA inscription certainly don’t help matters. But at the same time, we are swamped with announcements of new companies entering the business.
Lab-grown certainly seems to have become a bandwagon that many in the industry are merrily climbing on board. (Just today we got word of a new created diamond company, Love Earth Jewelry, headed by former Gregg Ruth CEO Daniel Schreiber.)
There’s even an attempt to form a virtual lab-grown diamond bourse, called the Lab Grown Diamond Network. Principals include Diamond Foundry veteran Alon Ben-Shoshan, as well as mined diamond companies that “have chosen not to publicly list their names.”
“I probably see a new lab-grown diamond offer/pitch/ad once a month, from someplace in the world,” says Tom Chatham, one of the pioneers of the created market. But he feels he’s seen this movie before: “In the 1990s we had many companies claiming to produce emeralds…and some did, but they failed at the marketing end. Many of these newcomers are just resellers and will fall by the wayside.”
entire article...
QUOTE FROM CNBC NEWS
"The Diamond Foundry was created by Martin Roscheisen, founder of solar power company Nanosolar. After that company folded in 2013, Roscheisen gathered the same team to come up with a proprietary discovery that can grow diamonds more efficiently than existing technologies.
Not murky, synthetic diamonds, but clear, white gems that are atomically identical to diamonds mined from the earth.
The Diamond Foundry starts with a sliver of an earth-mined diamond. That seed diamond is then heated to temperatures as hot as the outer layer of the sun. Layers of identical crystal atoms stack on top of the diamond, and it can grow up to nine carats in two weeks of uninterrupted time in the reactor." continue reading
QUOTE FROM THE DIAMOND FOUNDRY
"Impeccable provenance
Our diamonds are cultivated in San Francisco.
Our foundry re-creates the environment in which nature forms diamond on its own. Earth forms diamonds within hours actually; our process cultivates them over months.
Our production is boutique relative to the industrial scale of mining.
While diamonds usually go through dozens of owners, traders and dealers, ours is direct from us.
We also cut the carbon footprint – for a diamond as rock-solid as your values."
QUOTE FROM RAPAPORT DIAMOND EXPERT
"SELLING A PRODUCT WITH CONTINUOUSLY FALLING PRICES
Synthetic diamonds are man-made, which means man can make unlimited amounts of them. It is important to note that synthetic diamond technology is driven by U.S., Chinese and other government defense departments seeking to create strategic military innovations.
Martin Roscheisen, CEO of Diamond Foundry, the company supported by Leonardo DiCaprio, has reportedly raised $100 million to invest in synthetic diamonds. He claims that his “company can create pure diamond material at about 150 times the rate at which the industry now produces it.”
With Alibaba’s infinite competitive lower cost supply proposition and Moore’s law of exponential technological growth, it is likely that synthetic diamond prices will fall by at least 50 percent every 18 to 24 months. Prices for less expensive synthetics will likely plummet faster as they are much easier to create and compete with. Given the unlimited supply scenario, I see no reason why synthetic diamonds should not settle down to price levels slightly higher than cubic zirconia or very fine-cut Swarovski crystals.
Synthetic sellers make a big point about disclosing that their synthetic diamond is exactly the same as a natural diamond. That is not true. Natural diamonds have natural scarcity, which enables them to be a store of value. Synthetic diamonds have no scarcity and are not a store of value.
Consumers think they are buying a diamond with all of its attributes. They do not realize that they are buying something that does not hold value.
The fact that sellers try to sell synthetics at a discount to natural prices, instead of on a cost-plus basis, enforces the lie that synthetic diamond values are just like diamond values — only cheaper. If Millennial consumers are tricked into replacing natural diamonds with synthetic diamonds that do not hold value, they may be turned off to all diamonds forever when they find out the resale value of their synthetics." continue reading
FROM ONLINE JCK MAGAZINE
"The Barneys release of designer jewelry using lab created diamonds calls the stones cultivated. The term cultivated has not been approved for use by the Federal Trade Commission.
Diamond Foundry said in response, “Our diamonds being man-made is the whole point of our marketing, which we are very clear about. This is consistent with FTC principles of making sure that consumers get what they think they get.”
The president of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee Cecilia Gardner confirmed that using the term 'cultivated' in regard to lab-grown is not complying with the FTC guidelines."
QUOTE FROM ONLINE RACKED MAGAZINE
"Hedda Schupak, a market analyst and editor of the Centurion Newsletter, is skeptical that lab-grown companies are actually as sustainable as they claim to be. While Diamond Foundry boasts that its machines are powered through hydropower and solar power, others don't disclose the details of their production. This is a concern publications like JCK have raised before.
Two years ago, Jewelers Vigilance Committee president and CEO Cecilia Gardner told JCK that lab-grown companies using the term "eco-friendly" might be in violation of FTC standards because there's no proof that these factories (minus Diamond Foundry, which has let reporters from publications like Quartz see its operation to prove its machines are solar-powered) are green at all. And as JCK editor Rob Bates notes, lab-grown diamonds aren't replacing mined ones — they're just being created in addition to them.
"Unless they claim to be using solar or wind power, they are not carbon-neutral," Schupak says. "And it takes a lot of energy to do what needs to be done to make a diamond."
So far, little research has been done on what actually goes on in these labs. According to one report in the Stanford University alumni magazine that uses Canada's Ekati mine as an example, "replacing this one mine's annual diamond production with synthetic diamonds created in a lab could save the equivalent of about 483 million miles' worth of auto emissions." But University of Vermont professor Saleem Ali writes in his report "Ecological Comparison of Synthetic versus Mined Diamonds" that "this data may be misleading because we do not have any accurate metrics of the raw material used to make the synthetic diamonds" since lab procedures are labeled proprietary and are not shared with the public. The industry's lack of disclosure leaves people like Michelle Graff, who covers the industry for the trade site National Jeweler, dubious.
"There's a certain irony in the lab-grown biz. They keep trading on how it's so ethical, and cleaner, but then what are they all hiding?" she asks. "The mined industry is constantly under scrutiny to share and disclose, why shouldn't they do the same?"
It goes without saying that lab-growing will only become more sophisticated and cheaper in the coming years, and that accountability will have to follow. But what happens when synthetic diamonds flood the market? Will natural diamonds still retain their value? The unsatisfying answer is: nobody knows." continue from Racked
QUOTE FROM VOGUE
"Synthetic, or cultured, diamonds are not new. They have been manufactured for decades, first developed for General Electric in 1954 for industrial purposes and by the 1990s reaching gem-grade status among select producers. Their rising cachet has a simple explanation: provenance. The supply chain in the diamond industry has long been associated with conflict and environmental damage, largely brought into the public consciousness by the 2006 film Blood Diamond. The Kimberley Process, which set requirements for certifying diamonds “conflict-free,” went into effect in 2003, but in a world of increasingly judicious consumers, the untraceable status of so many of the world’s diamonds remains troublesome.
So it was news last year when Leonardo DiCaprio (along with ten billionaires) invested in Bay Area start-up Diamond Foundry, which had developed a technique for producing brilliantly clear, colorless, gem-quality stones.
Here is how it works: Diamond Foundry starts with a rough, earth-extracted Canadian diamond and takes a wafer-size slice of it—about 7 mm by 7 mm. This is placed in a hydrogen plasma reactor that mimics the conditions on the outer core of the sun (“We’ve created the sun on Earth!” says Roscheisen, who is boisterous, sharp, confident, and prone to the occasional evocation of Silicon Valley demigod culture). Add gases like carbon dioxide and methane inside the reactor, and atom by atom a crystal lattice is built. To see a cut-and-polished cultured diamond is to see, well, a diamond: It sparkles brilliantly, it refracts light, it is colorless and clear.
The process takes two weeks, Roscheisen explains as we make our way into the cavernous production room humming with white reactor machines. Since the slightest glitch can affect an entire batch, the reactors are monitored constantly. “People are eating eggs Benedict at brunch right now and checking on them from their iPhones,” he assures me.
Are synthetics the same as natural diamonds? According to the Gemological Institute of America, a lab-grown diamond is materially a diamond and can be evaluated using nearly the same standards of cut, clarity, carat, color, and other technical markers."
And yet is there a world in which, if I were getting engaged again, I’d want my walk by the Venice Canals to end with a diamond sourced just six hours north of where I live? Maybe. Cultured diamonds are beautiful, with an unbeatable provenance—but I’ll admit that the fact that improved efficiencies in the way they’re grown might eventually make them less expensive gives me pause." Continue Reading
For more information or answers to your questions contact
Jeff Deleuse, Graduate Gemologist and Certified Appraiser 415-459-3739
]]>In celebration of one hundred years since Cartier opened the first boutique in the United States at the New York address on Fifth Avenue in 1909 we have the privilege to see some of the finest jewels made for Americans (many of them notable figures in arts and entertainment) between the years of 1902 and 2007.
The Cartier & America collection at the Legion of Honor is an extraordinary exhibit—simply breathtaking. Extraordinary not only for the incredibly beautiful diamonds, gems and impeccable workmanship but also the historical significance Cartier had within the jewelry and fashion industry and around the globe.
Martin Chapman, the curator of European decorative arts and sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, has combined the private jewels (some of which have never been on display) and Cartier’s archival collection together in an amazing exhibition at the Legion of Honor. The jewels couldn’t have been displayed in a more significant venue. Built in 1915 by the generosity of San Francisco heiress Alma de Bretteville Spreckels, The Palace of the Legion of Honor is a smaller replica of the ‘Palais de la Legion d’Honneur’ located in Paris.
There are two hundred works of jeweled art on display and each one has its own unique story and I’d love to tell them all. Here is the description and a bit of lore of some of my favorites.
As I entered the dark room with lit cases the warm green glow of a large rare emerald immediately caught my attention. Set in platinum with white clusters of hundreds of diamonds the necklace practically lit the room. The reflections of the light from the contrasting colors were vibrant, rarely is an emerald of that size with the pure verdant color ever seen. Commissioned in 1932 by the American Beatrice Mills, who became the Countess of Granard, Cartier created this platinum and rose cut diamond necklace around the center of a 143.23 carat fine rectangular emerald. This necklace is indicative of the geometric style of jewelry that the London Cartier was producing during the 1930’s.
On the cover of the catalog is the famous emerald and diamond shoulder brooch. The photo of the brooch is impressive, but when you see it up close and personal it is truly an incredible jewel. Larger than the photo depicts, this intricately and complex peice is designed to resemble a buckle with paved eight hundred round diamonds, it measures eight inches in length. The large carved cabochon emeralds drop from white diamond encrusted platinum fluted shaped holders and rectangular caliber cut emeralds. The circle of black enamel around the top of each emerald creates a subtle contrast to the white diamonds. The 250 carats of carved Indian emeralds date to the seventeenth century Mughal period. This type of engraving is very difficult because emeralds are a delicate and break easily. The large flat center emerald has a later date inscription written in Farsi (Persian). The jeweled piece was originally a pendant on a strand of emeralds which was sold to Mr. Williams in 1914 at the Cartier London for the enormous amount of L10,000.00. Marjorie Merriweather Post, the American heiress to the cereal company and known as one of the richest women in America, purchased it in 1928 and had it converted into the brooch at Cartier NewYork. She wore the brooch in her portrait with her young daughter Nedenia painted by Giulio de Blaas. More than just jewelry, this art is on permanent display at the Hillwood Museum in Washington, D.C..
The “Star of South Africa” is one of the most historically important diamonds ever set in jewelry. It was discovered in 1869 and created the “diamond rush.”
It’s a dream come true for all the princesses when you enter the room with eleven diamond tiaras to choose from–and two gorgeous diamond bandeaus! Prior to WWI wealthy Americans broke the rules and began wearing diamond tiaras which were originally created to be worn only for the royal families. Mrs. Richard Townsend of Washington D.C., (coal and railroad money) was truly a queen at heart, she wore this incredible tiara with large diamonds made in platinum. In 1905 she also added this lacy diamond choker necklace and a ‘grand devant de corsage’ breast ornament of entwined roses and lilies, all in the style of Louis XVI. If all these diamonds were worn at the same time, who could have possibly out sparkled her at the Paris Opera House?
Well possibly our own San Franciscan, Mrs. William K.Vanderbuilt, a tall beautiful woman who wore diamond bracelets, rings and necklaces to the diamond ensemble of tiaras, necklaces and stomachers.
One of the most unique tiaras is a crown of ‘waves of diamonds’ which were created to match the exact waves in the hair of Lila Vanderbuilt Sloane. Designed in 1902 made in platinum and fine diamonds the style is modern and timeless—a girl could wear it today—providing of course she has the same wavy hair!
It was truly an honor to have participated in this historical exhibit contributing to the audio tour.
Janet Deleuse, All Rights Reserved
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Natural gem sapphire set in hand-fabricated platinum pendant. One off.
Natural Aquamarine flowers with faceted natural aquamarine gems and diamonds with Akoya pearls necklace and earrings. Gems cut in Germany. One-off set.
Gem sapphire set in hand-pierced platinum ring. One-off
Natural Tanzanite and diamond ring in 18k gold. Hand-fabricated. One-off
Amethyst tassel necklace in white and rose gold. One-off
Star sapphire with diamonds pendant necklace. One-off
Gemstones precision cut for this necklace and earring set. 18k gold. One-off.
Pendant necklace
Black Opal set in hand-cut black jade and platinum with diamonds. Designed by Janet Deleuse, one-off
Fine gem quality aquamarine and peridot precision cut in Germany with diamonds set in platinum. One-off
Precision cut peridot and aqua set in white gold. One-off
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Jeweled hearts, cupid and his arrows, clasped hands, lover’s knots, lovebirds, all are enduring tokens of affection – and favorites to gift a loved one on Valentine’s Day – since ancient times.
I explored earlier this month Victorian sentimental jewelry, but I’d like to look at the other sentimental symbols and their interpretation in jewelry.
Without question, the heart is the most universal representation of love. The first known depiction of a heart as a symbol of romantic love dates to the 1250s, occurring in a miniature decorating a capital S in a manuscript of the French ‘Roman de la poire’.
Miniature (capital S) from a manuscript of the Roman de la poire. This is the earliest known visual depiction of a lover handing his heart to his mistress. The heart is in the shape of a pine-cone (point upward), in accord with anatomical descriptions of the human heart at the time.
Atelier du Maître de Bari. La dame de Thibaud et Doux Regard. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia
In the miniature, a kneeling lover offers his heart to a damsel, the ‘heart’ in his hands resembling a pine-cone in accord with medieval anatomical descriptions. The heart-shape so familiar to us today was developed at the end of the Middle Ages and has been used on playing cards since the late 15th century.
18th century garnet cluster pendant brooch, c.1760
Designed as a ribbon tied bow suspending an openwork heart with central swing drop and smaller swing drop below, close set in silver with oval faceted and rose cut garnets
Available at S.J. Phillips
It goes without saying that jewelers saw the heart as the ultimate expression of love, and what could be a more profound way to give a lover one’s heart made of precious metal and gemstones?
Some heart jewels include a key motif, with which one symbolically gives the ‘key to my heart’. The key is also seen alongside lockets, conferring the same trust of allowing one to unlock a lover’s heart.
Antique ruby and rose diamond key brooch, c.1840 , suspending a moonstone heart with ruby and rose diamond surround, close set in silver and gold.
An Edwardian jeweled and enameled brooch
In the form of a heart enameled translucent scarlet over a sunburst guillochage emanating from a diamond set key, bordered with rose diamonds, the reverse with a glass covered compartment.
The brooch is a rebus reading ‘key to my heart forever’, the diamonds being emblematic of eternity.
English, circa 1905.
The son of the love goddess Venus, Cupid is the god of desire, erotic love, attraction and affection. His wings represent lovers’ flightiness, likely to change their minds on a whim, and his boyish appearance reflects how love is foolish and irrational much like a young child. The arrow and torch are Cupid’s symbols “because love wounds and inflames the heart.”
A ‘Cupid’s bow and quiver’ brooch, in the form of a chased yellow gold bow and quiver containing five removable arrows modeled as gold pins with colored natural pearl finials,the bow set with a white pearl; the pins may also be worn alongside the brooch.
Here Cupid’s arrows, surmounted by pearls which are emblematic of his mother Venus, Goddess of Love, are waiting to be fired. English, circa 1895.
Cupid is often depicted with his mother, playing a horn; while in other images, his mother Venus is seen scolding or even spanking him due to his mischievous nature.
An intricately detailed turn of the century Tiffany & Co. Venus and Cupid Cameo. The cameo is made with red and white enameling, set on 18k yellow gold, surrounded by Old European cut diamonds and rubies.
Signed on the back “Venus & Cupid” “Tiffany & Co”
Clasped hands in the form of a ring, known as a fede ring, is yet another recurring motif, symbolizing friendship and love.
‘Fede’ derives from the Italian phrase ‘mani in fede’ (‘hands [joined] in faith’ or ‘hands [joined] in loyalty’), symbolizing faith, trust or ‘plighted troth’. These rings date from Roman times, when the gesture of clasped hands was a symbol of pledging vows, and they were often used as engagement or wedding rings in medieval and Renaissance Europe.
Fede Ring SJ Phillips 19th. century 18ct. gold gimmel/ fede ring, the clasped hands opening to reveal a central hoop, twin hearts motif, engraved cuffs, English c.1860
Another favorite wedding or engagement ring also dating from Roman times is a lover’s knot ring, consisting of a complex knot made from wire.
An Antique Victorian Opal and Turquoise Ring, circa 1860 Gold, the central love knot design flanked by two opal-set flowers, the heart-shaped drop also set with opals. The association of knots with the symbolism of love, friendship and affection.
In lieu of symbols, it was popular to attest one’s love through mottoes or mementos, such as jeweled depictions of the words ‘Recuerdo’ (Portugeuse for ‘remember’), ‘Souvenir’ (French for ‘remember’), or simply ‘Love’.
A Gold, Enamel and Gem-set Brooch by Lucien Falize, of circular form featuring the word 'Recuerdo' (memento) in Medieval script, the initial letter carried out in diamonds in a separate cartouche, the rest of the word arranged in a circle in translucent red enamel against an opaque cream ground simulating illuminated script on vellum. The circular form is centred with a diamond-set pansy signifying 'Pensee', translating as a 'thought' or 'memento'.
Maker: Lucien Falize Paris, c.1880.
Victorian gold and turquoise “book” bracelet, unfolding to read “Souvenir.”
English, ca. 1845
An antique gold and gem-set brooch
In the form of two swallows flying towards each other, the bodies and tail feathers of each set with diamonds, the wings of one set with demantoid garnets, the wings of the other set with rubies, each with gold beaks and ruby-set eyes.
The swallow symbolizes trust and loyalty. The brooch is set with diamonds and rubies, symbolizing lovers united by passionate love. French, circa 1880.
SENTIMENTAL SYMBOLS: LOVE IS ALL AROUND by Jewels du Jour
Article and images from Jewels du Jour, 2014
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Janet Deleuse Designer Jewelry
The legend of the origin of amethyst comes from Greek myth. Dionysus, the god of intoxication, was angered one day and swore revenge on the next mortal that crossed his path, creating fierce tigers to carry out his wish. Along came unsuspecting Amethyst, a beautiful young maiden on her way to pay tribute to the goddess Diana. The terrified girl asked to be spared the pain of the brutal claws so Diana turned her into a statue of pure crystalline quartz. At the sight, Dionysus wept tears of wine in remorse. The god's tears stained the quartz purple, creating the gem we know today.
Since the middle ages, Bishop's rings have been set with amethyst as a symbol of piety and celibacy. Leonardo da Vinci wrote that amethyst has the power to protect against evil thoughts and to sharpen the intelligence. Buddhists believe that amethyst enhances the peace and tranquility of meditation, making it the preferred choice for Tibetan rosaries even today.
Janet Deleuse Designer Jewelry
Amethyst, the traditional birthstone for the month of February, is available in a wide range of sizes and shapes, including very large sizes. The Smithsonian Institution has an amethyst that weighs more than 1,000 carats. Of course, very large sizes in rich, deep colors have always been rare.
Designers celebrate amethyst as an ideal gemstone for jewelry because of its royal color, variety of sizes and shapes, affordability, and wide tonal range, from pale lavender to dark purple. Amethyst is complements both warm and cool colors so it looks right set in both yellow and white metals. This chameleon quality means it complements almost every color in your wardrobe.
Janet Deleuse Designer Jewelry
Mined mainly in Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia, and African countries like Zambia and Namibia, small amounts of amethyst are also found in Arizona at the Four Peaks mine near Phoenix.
There is also a synthetic amethyst that is made in labs in Russia, China, and other places. Only a few labs can separate it from natural amethyst, so use care when buying from dubious sources. The AGTA Gem Testing Center is one of the leading labs in the world offering this service.
Amethyst is the mineral quartz, with a hardness of 7. It's durable and great for everyday wear.
Posted from the American Gem Trade Association
Russia was the major source of amethyst until the 19th century, when large deposits were found in Brazil. Once as rare as ruby or emerald, amethyst was suddenly in abundance. Today, the most important sources of amethyst are in Africa and South America. Brazil is still a major supplier, especially its southernmost state, Rio Grande do Sul, though the rough amethyst mined there tends to have a lighter color than amethyst found in other countries. Amethyst from Brazil sometimes forms in hollow, crystal-lined geodes so large you can stand in them.
The Anahí mine in Bolivia is another prominent source for amethyst. Hidden in the Pantanal wetlands, the Anahí mine is shrouded in fascinating lore. It was discovered by a Spanish conquistador in the 1600s, given to him as dowry when he married Anahí (a princess from the Ayoreo tribe), forgotten for three centuries, and rediscovered in the 1960s. The Anahí mine is also famous in gem circles as the source of the unusual bicolored amethyst-citrine crystals called ametrine.
In Africa, Zambia’s Kariba mine is one of the largest amethyst producers in the world. Amethyst mined there tends to be of superb quality with richly saturated colors.
Amethyst is also found in the United States, just 46 miles (74 km) outside of Phoenix, Arizona. The Four Peaks amethyst mine is located high in the most rugged part of the Mazatzal Mountains. A remote location, hot summer temperatures, and a lack of water and power at the mine make for challenging conditions. Yet this jagged, arid, rattlesnake-infested terrain produces some very fine dark purple and purplish red amethyst crystals.
Amethyst is a 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness. This means that it is appropriate for daily use in rings and other jewelry, but over time it may show wear and require repolishing. Because this February birthstone is more susceptible to damage than harder gems such as rubies, sapphires and diamonds, you risk scratching your amethyst jewelry if you place it next to these harder stones...
Heat treatment is the most common technique for improving the color and marketability of natural amethyst. Heat treatment can’t make pale amethyst darker, but it can lighten the color of very dark amethyst and make it more attractive. It can also remove unwanted brownish inclusions in some amethysts. Some amethyst turns yellow – to citrine – with heat treatment.
Heat treating amethyst results in a permanent change in color. However, submitting it to intense heat may render it slightly more brittle than usual, and care must be taken not to damage pointed faceted corners and sharp edges. Note, too, that excessive heat can remove the color entirely, and some amethyst fades with prolonged exposure to strong light. Though the color is stable with normal use, this is not a birthstone to wear to the beach every day.
Amethyst birthstone jewelry can be cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner, but steam cleaning is not recommended. A soft brush with mild soap is the safest option.
As you shop for the February birthstone, you’ll also encounter lab-created amethyst. Having the same chemical and physical properties as its natural counterpart, synthetic amethyst has been known since the 1970s. In some cases, it is very difficult to distinguish natural from synthetic amethyst without access to advanced gemological testing. The GIA Laboratory can tell the difference, but many in the jewelry industry do not request testing because of the cost and time required to determine the origin of what is a comparatively inexpensive gem. Still, merchants are required to tell you if a gem is natural or synthetic.
The patron of romantic love wore an amethyst ring carved with the image of Cupid.
The astrologer wrote that amethyst quickens intelligence and gets rid of evil thoughts.
Single amethyst crystals can be huge: the GIA Museum displayed a doubly terminated crystal that weighed 164 pounds.
Information from the GIA 2021
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Peridot Pendant and Amethyst pendant set in 18k gold with pave set diamonds. Separate Necklaces. Peridot and diamond drop earrings.
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Gary Smith called one of the stones “ninety percent glass…almost all glass” that can be damaged by cleaning solution. “If you left [the stone in solution] long enough, it would literally fall apart,” he said.
“These are not real rubies, period,” Matlins said on the show. “They are not rare, they are not valuable, and they are not durable.” In the broadcast, Lord & Taylor—which was also featured on the Inside Edition segment—and J.C. Penney salespeople both verbally noted the pieces were “lead-glass rubies.” However, according to the show, both of them also called the stones natural when asked for further information, as did the salespeople from Littman and Macy’s. None of them disclosed special-care requirements, Matlins says.
The Federal Trade Commission is examining the subject of lead glass–filled rubies. While it is legal to sell the stones, the Guides mandate disclosure of the treatment and any special-care requirements. The Jewelers Vigilance Committee says that, under the current Guides, the stones should always be described as composite or lead-glass filled ruby. “For composite ruby, the words natural or gem are probably inappropriate descriptors,” it adds.
Fred Meyer Jewelers, which owns Littman, tells JCK: “We were very surprised and disappointed to hear that one of our associates failed to disclose the treatments used in a lead glass–filled ruby ring. We have a long-standing, strong, and clear policy about this, which we are immediately reissuing companywide…. Every single lead glass–filled gem that is sold is tagged with information clearly identifying it as such, and our salespeople have been instructed to educate consumers about the difference in treated stones and the specific care requirements associated.”
The company said that it will revisit its sales training to ensure this “is an isolated incident.”
J.C. Penney admitted that the item was incorrectly labeled.
“It was never our intention to mislead the customer,” a statement said. “Moving forward, we will update the tags on our lead glass–filled rubies by removing any references to genuine so that customers clearly understand the nature of this enhanced gemstone.”
Macy’s, which has faced issues with lead glass–filled rubies in the past—including a consumer lawsuit and segment on Good Morning America—said in a statement that it is training its sales associates to bring any relevant information to customers’ attention.
“Almost all of the ruby merchandise sold in Macy’s Fine Jewelry department has a base of the mineral corundum and is lead-glass filled,” it said. “In addition, some have been heated to improve appearance. Macy’s does not carry synthetic lab-created rubies that are sold by some other retailers. We have signs in Macy’s precious and semiprecious gemstone departments informing our customers that gemstones may have been treated and may require special care.”
Lord & Taylor did not respond to a request for comment from JCK by press time but told Today it will refund purchases if customers aren’t satisfied.
Jewelry manufacturer Effy, which was cited once in the broadcast, says the “report contains numerous factually inaccurate, unfair, and misleading statements,” which it will address at a later date, and it says it is considering “all options, including legal remedies.”
“Effy branded lead glass–filled ruby jewelry complies fully with FTC requirements,” the company adds. “Effy also adheres to acceptable industry guidelines relating to disclosure of ruby jewelry to all its retail and wholesale customers.”
It stresses that it does not manufacture the filled rubies itself, but buys them from suppliers, and adds the company is “making every effort to facilitate and improve the disclosures necessary to fully educate the consumer.”
Matlins tells JCK that lead glass–filled rubies are “the most misrepresented product ever sold in my lifetime in this industry,” but says that she has no plans to do more shows like these.
“I don’t look for these stories,” she says. “I have done so many of these that my name pops up. When they call me, I feel honor-bound to participate because of what is going on out there.”
By Rob Bates, Senior Editor
Posted on July 28, 2014
An Exceptional Jadeite Bead Necklace of Extreme Importance Formerly in the Collection of Barbara Hutton.
HONG KONG.- Sotheby’s Hong Kong presents The Hutton-Mdivani Necklace, the Greatest Jadeite Bead Necklace of Historical Importance. Expected to fetch in excess of $12.8 million at its Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale to take place on 7 April at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
The Hutton-Mdivani Necklace has the most illustrious provenance spanning members of Western nobility and Imperial China since the turn of last century, and is widely recognised as the most important piece of jadeite jewellery known to the world.
This jadeite bead necklace, with an innovative clasp by Cartier, comprises 27 gigantic jadeite beads of magnificent green colour, excellent translucency, extremely fine texture and majestic proportions, with diameters ranging from 19.20 mm to 15.40 mm.
A fine complement to the prominence of its past owners, this jadeite bead necklace offers a unique collecting opportunity for jewellery and jadeite connoisseurs. QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman and Head of Jewellery Department, Sotheby’s Asia, said, “We are most honoured to be entrusted to offer in our upcoming Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite sale The Hutton-Mdivani Necklace, the greatest jadeite bead necklace in the world.
Of the finest quality and striking proportions, this jadeite bead necklace with a storied past is an epitome of the mysterious and captivating beauty of jadeite, the most revered oriental gemstone, and evokes the glamour of distinguished style icons of both China and the West at the turn of the last century. It stands as the most important piece of jadeite jewellery known to the world and is set to engage keen competition from jewellery cognoscenti.
Barbara Hutton (1912 – 1979) – A Fabled Heiress and Iconic Collector Socialite and heiress Barbara Woolworth Hutton was among the few in the West known for her love for jadeite. Heiress to the retail tycoon Frank Winfield Woolworth, Hutton was one of the wealthiest women in the world when she turned 21, and known for her distinguished taste, lavish lifestyle as well as elegance and beauty.
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American socialite Barbara Hutton was one of the wealthiest heiresses of her time. For her wedding, her father gifted her a precious pearl necklace that once belonged to Mary Antoinette, which she is wearing in this photo from 1939.
A great patron of the renowned jewellery houses, her collection encompassed unique commissioned pieces by the most celebrated jewellers, as well as important royal and noble jewels, among them a pearl necklace formerly belonging to Marie Antoinette, Queen of France.
The World’s Greatest Jadeite Bead Necklace of Supreme Historical Importance The Cartier archive records the jadeite beads being in their possession in 1933 when an innovative clasp was designed especially for the Hutton family. The necklace was then presented as a wedding gift in the same year to Barbara Hutton from her father on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Mdivani.
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Prince Alexis Mdivani of Georgia and Barbara Hutton on their wedding day in 1933.
Photo by Bettman/Corbis
Image: Sotheby's
Left: The Hutton-Mdivani jadeite bead necklace and matching ring by Cartier
Right: Barbara Hutton with her first husband, Prince Alexis Mdivani, photographed in 1933 at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York. She is wearing her jadeite necklace and the ruby and diamond bracelet of French manufacture illustrated over the photo.
It was first worn publically by Barbara Hutton at her 21st birthday party, and remained in the Mdivani family for over five decades until it was first sold at auction in 1988 for $2 million and made news headlines as the most expensive piece of jadeite jewellery in the world. Six years later in 1994 it was offered at auction again in Hong Kong, this time doubling its previous price to achieve $4.2 million and once again bringing the price of jadeite jewellery to a new level.
Widely known as the most important piece of jadeite jewellery to date, this necklace comprises 27 highly translucent beads of perfectly matched colour, extremely fine texture and extraordinary majestic proportions ranging from 19.20 to 15.40 mm in diameter, as well as a patina and polish consistent with the fine craftsmanship from the late Qing period.
The proportions alone render them highly unusual and impressive, as top-quality jadeite boulders normally yield beads of no more than 5 to 10 mm in diameter due to their extreme scarcity. To fashion a strand of matching jadeite beads, all the beads must be carved from the same boulder and as many as thrice the desired number of beads are often needed from which to select the most suitable ones.With the immense wastage involved, jadeite bead necklaces rank among the most valuable and sought-after forms of jadeite jewellery.
The Hutton-Mdivani Necklace is also remarkable for its design. Jade was incorporated into Western jewellery design in the early 20th century. As Cartier embraced this unique oriental gemstone, carved jade became a notable element in the brand’s signature Art Deco designs and a novel expression of luxury.
The jadeite beads on the necklace were set by Cartier to a ruby and diamond clasp of clean and geometrical design. The red colour of rubies, whilst auspicious in Chinese culture, is also a fine example of the colour palette of the Art Deco period against the luminous green colour of the beads. Qing Jadeite Beads Reputedly From The Imperial Court Classic and elegant, the jadeite bead necklace is among the most popular forms of jadeite jewellery and favoured by the likes of Empress Dowager Cixi of China, Madame Chiang Kai-Shek and Madame Wellington Koo, wife of the famous Chinese diplomat V.K. Wellington Koo.
Image: Sotheby's
The Hutton-Mdivani Necklace featuring 27 Qing jadeite beads with a beautiful Art Deco ruby and diamond clasp created by Cartier in 1933.
As a result of political instability in the late 19th century, Imperial treasures were removed from the palace and many of them redesigned into various forms of jewellery. Like many lost treasures, the precise origin of the jadeite beads on this necklace is unknown. Nonetheless, since the beads were of supreme quality and had already found their way to Europe and been customised into a piece of haute joaillerie by Cartier by the early 1930s, they can be dated at least to the late 19th or early 20th century.
The prominence of the original owner of the beads is sufficiently reflected by their supreme quality. Since its introduction as a tribute to the Qing Imperial court in the 18th century, jadeite of various forms was exclusively worn by the ruling class. Imperial court necklaces in particular were worn only by Qing emperors and senior officials.
Considering the impressive size and quality, it is likely the beads on the Hutton-Mdivani Necklace would have been presented to the Imperial court. An Imperial jadeite bead necklace acquired in the early 20th century by Oei Tiong Ham, a successful Chinese businessman in Indonesia, from Beijing’s leading jadeite dealer, Tieh Bao Ting, was sold at Sotheby’s New York in 2010.
While the 30 jadeite beads on the Oei Tiong Ham necklace - originally from a Qing Imperial court necklace - measure 13.40 to 13.30 mm in diameter, the beads on the Hutton-Mdivani Necklace currently offered are far superior in colour, texture, translucency and size, which indicates an equally, if not more distinguished original ownership.
Image: Sotheby's
Court Necklace with Green Jadeite Beads Qing dynasty (1644-1911)
Green jadeite, coral, tourmaline, gilt copper, and kingfisher feathers Perimeter: 145 cm; diameter of beads: 1.2 cm National Palace Museum Collection
Partial Information and Images Posted from Jewels du Jour, February 21, 2014
More Information: http://artdaily.com/news/68329/Sotheby-s-Hong-Kong-unveils-the-world-s-greatest-jadeite-bead-necklace-of-supreme-historical-importance#.UwebWf1tdz8[/url]
Copyright © artdaily.org Photo: Sotheby's.
Exhibiting a lively light reflection, garnets are mentioned in the legend of Noah’s Ark, according to the Talmud, a single large garnet provided the only light source for the navigation of the Ark.
The oldest garnet jewelry that has been found are from excavations throughout the world are the Sumerian sites dating from 2300 BCE and from Egyptian tombs dating 3100 BCE, typically found as inlaid jewelry and fashioned into beads.
In Sweden, garnets were unearthed dating from 2000-1000 BCE. The Grecians and Romans used garnets as amulets for luck and intaglios (carved stones), worn as emblems of wealth.
A durable stone, garnets do not scratch or break easily. Garnet crystals form in a cubic system with a twelve-faced rhombic dodecahedron and the twenty-four faced icostetrahedron and in combinations of these two forms.
There are several common names, depending on the chemical compositions, for the different colored garnets. Garnet crystals grow in all colors except shades of blue. The most extraordinary colorful and rare garnets exhibit vibrant orange, green and magenta colors. Of the six types of garnet crystals, only five are large enough to be used in jewelry.
Almandite garnet is the most common color. Ranging from medium red to dark brownish red, the color is due to the content of iron-aluminum silicate. The inhabitants of the ancient city in Asia Minor, Alabanda, originally named the Almandite garnet. The Alabandans wore and treasured the almandite garnet in the fourth century BCE. Since 3200 BCE, India has been one of the main sources of almandite garnet. Almandite is the only type of garnet that can reflect a ‘star’ pattern of light, called asterism, when cut in a cabochon fashion (similar to that of ruby and sapphire.)
Pyrope is derived from the Greek word “pyropos” which means fire. Pyrope garnets have a brilliant reflection and deep saturation of fiery red and can also exhibit a deep red color with a tint of purple or a brownish red color (similar to the almandite variety). Magnesium-aluminum is the element that is the source for the coloring in pyrope garnet. They are usually found near diamond mines.
Nicknamed ‘Bohemian’, the pyrope garnet was originally found in the kingdom of Bohemia, now known as the Czech Republic. The old style of cutting and jewelry design using pyrope garnet was the main source of employment in the region, traced to the sixteenth century. Excavations have uncovered garnet necklaces dating to the Bronze Age in this area. The bohemian garnet jewelry became popular during the Victorian era– floret earrings, pins, rings, tiaras and ornate necklaces were copied from the old Bohemian traditional jewelry styles.
Getty Image, Antique Garnet Cluster Jewelry
Large pebbles of pyrope garnets are also found on the ground in the Kalahari Desert, which frequently led to the discovery of diamond mines. The discovery of pyrope garnet in Russia, in 1953, instigated a search for diamonds resulted in one of the most important discoveries of diamonds; the first kimberlite pipe (diamonds) located in the upper Markha River. The main source for pyrope garnets today is from Africa.
In the Arizona, New Mexico and Utah deserts Native Americans discovered pyrope garnets by following the trails of termites. A prized gem, garnets were used frequently in decorating ceremonial headdresses. The Native Americans traded their treasured garnets to the Aztecs which was used to adorn their elaborately decorated masks.
Pyralspite is the name for series of garnets that are a mixture of minerals which do not fit into a specific garnet family.
Rhodolite garnet is a combination of pyrope and almandite. Named after the beautiful violet, pinkish-red color of the rhododendron flower, the rhodolite garnet is an unusually lively and a beautiful color. Originally found in North Carolina, U.S.A., in 1882 where rhododendrons are abundant. There are a few rare rhodolite garnets from East Africa that can exhibit a star reflection.
Malaya, Swahili for prostitute, is the name of a garnet that is a combination of spessartine and pyrope. Discovered in 1979, Malaya garnets are rare and vibrant exhibiting hues of reddish-orange and pinkish over tones.
The rare, pure orange spessaritite garnet has a high concentration of manganese-aluminum, producing an intense, stunning color. Originally discovered in the district of Spessart, near Schaffenburg, Bavaria, the gem was named after the district. Rare spessaritites are vibrant yellow and the common variety are yellow-brown, often mistakenly identified as citrine quartz or topaz.
Faceted Garnet by Jeffrey Hunt
Discovered in 1800, the andraite garnet was named after the Portuguese mineralogist, M.d’Andrada. Andradite garnets vary in colors, ranging from black to shades of yellow and green. Within the andradite family, each color of garnet has an identifiable name. The lively green and rare demantoid garnet is the most valuable of all the garnets and are incorrectly called “olivine”.
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Demantoid, derived from the old German word for diamond ‘Demant’, is named so because of the intensity of its sparkle which is similar to that of a diamond. This unique, vivid reflection property is due to the color dispersion within the mineral. Comprised of calcium-iron silicate, with the trace of chromic oxide, the green hue of the demantoid is unique to garnets. Originally found in the Ural Mountains in Russia in 1851, most demantioids are rarely over four carats.
The gem buyer for Tiffany, George Kunz, purchased all the demantoid garnets available at the time of discovery–giving Tiffany’s jewelry collections the finest green garnets.
Janet Deleuse Designer Garnet Jewelry
Grossularite garnets refer to a group that vary in colors: ranging from colorless, white, yellow, violet-red and orange-red. The name grossular is not used for one particular color of garnet; it is the mineralogical name for the calcium aluminum group. Each color is called by a separate name.
Hessonite ranges in orange to brown colors. Nicknamed ‘cinnamon stones’ the earliest known source was from the ‘spice island’ of Sri Lanka. Translucent grossularite may be confused with jadeite or misnamed as “South African Jade.” Found in Transvaalit, grossularite garnet is also erroneously called “Transvaal Jade.” Some grossularite garnets may be grey or pink opaque and may have black specks.
Janet Deleuse
South Africa, Tanzania and Kenya have been the primary sources of the clear green tsavorite garnet. Discovered in 1968, in the Tsavo National Park in Kenya, Tsavorite garnets were promoted and used extensively by Tiffany. Tsavorite garnets are rare and often mistaken for emeralds, although the color is a more vibrant green than emeralds.
Comprised of calcium chromium, with a clear dark green color, the Uvaorite garnet crystals do not grow large enough to be fashioned into jewelry.
In 1892, the Hanza Tribe used garnet bullets against the British troops during the hostilities on the Kashmir frontier–their ancient belief that garnet bullets were more deadly than those of lead. Some of these bullets are currently on display in the British museums.
"Garnets represent faith, truth and the release of melancholy, according to ancient folklore of Bohemia."
Janet Deleuse, all rights reserved
Find your birthstone jewelry on the Deleuse Designer Collection deleuse.com
Additional Information and Photo Credits:
National Gem Collection, The Smithsonian Institution,
Jeffrey E. Post with photographs by Chip Clark, 1997
Gems, Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification,
Fifth Edition, R. Webster, Butterworth and Heinemanne 1962
Gems, Crystals, & Minerals,
Anna S, Sofianides, George E. Harlow
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Jeff Deleuse gold soldering a broken chain. Expert repair services.
"After I fell and jammed my ring finger, I had to have my beautiful engagement and wedding bands cut off my badly swollen finger. They were so badly damaged that I thought I would have to have the stones transferred into a new ring. Janet and Jeff at Deleuse Jewelers proved me wrong and then some! I am so impressed with how perfectly they repaired my rings and the price was SO reasonable. To say I am thrilled would be an understatement. I can't imagine trusting anyone else to repair my fine jewelry." Gail J., San Francisco
]]>Graduate from the Gemological Institute of America and members of the American Gem Society and the American Gem Trade Association (2008-2023 past members), Jeff Deleuse will personally conduct all research for a comprehensive and detailed analysis of your fine jewelry.
All jewelry is fully insured and remains in our store.
Please call for more information and for appointments. 415-459-3739
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What other gem has been collected, traded, worn and treasured with so much passion for thousands of years as the vibrant turquoise?
Turquoise, is a rare gem. The color so extraordinary that it has been prized by civilizations since antiquity. The oldest turquoise jewelry found to date is a strand of beads dating to approximately 5000 B.C. from ancient Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq). Also found were engraved turquoise tablets with passages from the Koran and Persian proverbs and inlaid with golden gilt which were worn as amulets dating to the seventh century A.D.
In ancient Egypt, turquoise was the chosen stone worn by royalty prior to the first dynasty. Egyptian turquoise beads and jewelry dating to 4000 B.C. was discovered at El-Badari.
The prized gem from the lost civilization of ancient Mexico, the Incas carved beads, figurines and made astonishing inlay jewelry with turquoise.
Siberian turquoise jewelry, dating from the sixth century B.C., was fashioned with clusters of stones. The ancient Greeks and Romans wore signet rings with engraved turquoise emblems.
During the Middle Ages, Europeans decorated vessels and the covers of manuscripts with mosaics of small turquoise.
In Florence, during the Renaissance period, the saying went: “no man considered his hand well adorned unless he wore turquoise rings.” Turquoise graced royal crowns and became one of the most popular gems to wear in Europe as the centuries unfolded.
The derivation of the name turquoise is a mystery, it has not been changed as long as written history and oral legends have been told. Pliny, the ancient scribe, wrote, “The term, ‘kalos lithos’ meaning ‘beautiful stone’ and this was the original name for turquoise, transformed to ‘callais’ in ancient Greece.”
In the old French language, tourques, was used for turkey stone, referring to Persian turquoise that was imported from the Sinai Peninsula via the country, Turkey. However, the Turkish called Persian turquoise by its Persian name, firuse. The Venetian merchants bought turquoise from the Turkish bazaars and called it ‘pierre turquoise’ which also translates to ‘stone of Turkey.’ The term, Turkey stone, was used in reference to any stones that were foreign, turquoise included, originating from the Orient.
Turquoise rocks are found in arid dry regions where the rocks, such as sandstones have copper deposits, alumina and phosphorus (volcanic lava). Turquoise is often found in close proximity with malachite, azurite or chrysocolla. The chemical composition of turquoise is of hydrous copper aluminum phosphate with some iron; the percentages of the composition vary from stone to stone. The typical turquoise mineral formation consists of acryptocrystalline aggregate with fine crystallites rendering it practically amorphous, which means the rocks are very porous, similar to compressed powder. Turquoise found in the U.S.A. will fade faster than Persian turquoise due to its higher porosity and more absorbency to oils and chemicals.
Discovered in 1912, in Lynch, Virginia, U.S.A., an unusual matrix of turquoise consisting of distinct crystals of the triclinic system is the only known source of this type of turquoise to date.
The sky blue color, known in the U.S.A. as robin’s egg blue, is due the higher percentage of copper versus iron. If the stone has a higher percentage of iron than copper, the turquoise color will have more of a greenish hue.
The most rare and valuable turquoise has an evenly distributed sky blue color without traces of matrix. Turquoise with matrix may be less valuable, however, of the matrix variety the “spider web” is the most desirable in the southwest U.S.A.
Janet Deleuse Jewelry view
The turquoise mines in New Mexico, Nevada, Arizona and California have produced the most turquoise collectively in the world. California turquoise is found in the Mohave Desert, where the mines have been worked for over a thousand years by the Pueblo Indians. Most all of the specialized turquoise mines have been depleted, especially the green variety, only ten percent of all turquoise mined is gem quality. The production of turquoise today in the southwest United States is a by-product of copper mining.
A soft stone, with the hardness less than 6 on the Mohs’s scale, turquoise can be easily cut and used for inlay decorations, carvings and engravings. Gem quality turquoise is typically cut in a cabochon shape, rounded and not faceted, enhancing the opaque lovely turquoise color that is highly lustrous when polished.
The finest quality turquoise in the world comes from the mountainous range near the district of Nichapur, Iran. This area has been mined for centuries and most Persian Turquoise has been marketed at Mashhad and exported to Russia and India in the past centuries. Prior to World War I turquoise was Iran’s most important industry with over one hundred turquoise mines. After World War II the output declined and ceased after the revolution.
Tibetan green turquoise has been highly prized and written about for many years. However, Tibet does not have turquoise mines and the stones were thought to have been brought to Tibet originally by the friar Francesco Orazio della Penna di Billi in 1730, from China.
It was written by the scholar, Laufer, “that the finest turquoises are obtained from a mine in the Gangs-Chan Mountains of Tibet, and the green turquoise is in several mountains in eastern Tibet.” However, the exact locations were not given and have not been known even to the Tibetans. It is believed that the green turquoise is called gyu, may have been derived from Chinese word yu meaning green. According to recent archaeological finds in China, turquoise has been known for three thousand years. Marco Polo wrote of green turquoise used in the province of Caindu (now Sichuan), which was mostly inhabited by Tibetan tribes at that time.
Ancient India did not know about turquoise until the Mughal Period of the fourteenth century, and named the newly founded stone, kiris.
Janet Deleuse Turquoise and Pearl Bracelet. view
The most important source of turquoise both historically and commercially is the Egyptian turquoise from the Sinai Peninsula. A greenish-blue turquoise, from the mines of Magharah and Serabit el Khadi, supplied Egypt over four thousand years ago, in addition to malachite, azurite and chryosocolla.
The surviving documents recording the extensive mining operations, employing thousands of laborers until about one thousand B.C., from King Semerkhet, 2923 B.C. indicates that turquoise was used for ornamentation during the Egyptian Old and Middle Kingdoms as early as the Baderian period.
The Egyptian name for turquoise was “majkat”, early translations was transcribed as malachite, causing confusion about not finding a reference to turquoise in ancient Egyptian writings.
In 1947 the site was discovered on the port of Merkhah, through which the Egyptians brought turquoise for the Pharoahs and the royal family approximately one hundred meters from the Gulf. The turquoise district of Sinai lies along the southwestern coastline of the peninsula, bordering the Gulf of Suez.
Janet Deleuse Turquoise Earrings view
An ancient temple dedicated to Hathor, the Goddess of Turquoise, is located south of the famous turquoise mine at Serabit el Khadim.
The Native Americans from the southwest, U.S.A. supplied turquoise to the Aztecs in Mexico and to the Toltec’s who preceded them. Famous for inlaid turquoise on a wooden base with wax or gum, the Aztecs artistically decorated objects. An incredible example of this type of work is currently on display in the British Museum; a human skull is completely covered with a mosaic of turquoise with the eyes of polished pyrites and the teeth in white shell.
The Pueblo Indians of the American southwest also used turquoise for inlay decorations, the oldest known artifact is a bone scraper found during the 1896 Hyde Expedition in Chaco Canon, New Mexico.
The Apache Indians called turquoise duklij and highly valued it as a talisman. With the powers to aid a warrior or hunter by assuring the accuracy of his aim, a turquoise stone was tied to the bow to insure a straight shoot to its mark.
Highly traded throughout the Americas, turquoise has been found in burial sites in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, Mexico, Central America and the southwest United States. Over nine thousand turquoise beads and pendants were found near one single grave in New Mexico.
Since turquoise has been treasured for so many centuries, it is not surprising that it was one of the first gems to be imitated. One of the earliest known imitation materials, used prior to 477 BC and during the Roman period until about 51 BC, was glazed soapstone dyed blue and green, a form of faience. It was used for making beads, pendants, rings, amulets and small animal figures.
Since then, there has been many synthetic imitations of turquoise, such as glass, enamel, stained chalcedony, porcelain and pressed pieces of turquoise bonded with plastic or resin, commonly used since 1957.
Reconstructed turquoise is made from finely powdered ivory with copper stain and cement. Other imitations are blue dyed howlite, surface limestone and blue dyed, plastic treated marble beads and plastics. Imitations have faked cracks and are of a color true to the gem turquoise. Artificial products sold as turquoise are called, Viennese Turquoise, Hamburger Turquoiseand Neolith.
Turquoise used for jewelry is commonly oiled, waxed and made stronger by impregnating silica and resins– all are acceptable methods of stabilizing the soft porus stone.
It was recorded in the thirteenth century by Persian scholars that horsemen carried turquoise, known as a horse amulet, on hunt or war for protection from falling from their horse.
According to Persian lore, “one who could see the reflection of a new moon on a turquoise stone was certain to have good luck and be protected from evil.”
The Hindus had a similar belief, “an individual could look at a new moon and immediately after, look at a stone of turquoise, great wealth would surely follow.”
The Navajo believed that to ensure the blessing of rain, a turquoise should be thrown into the river while praying out-loud to the rain god.
Janet Deleuse
All rights reserved
Janet Deleuse Fine Jewelry
Hand-cut natural turquoise, Akoya pearls and diamond bracelet in hand-fabricated 18k gold
one of a kind, available: deleuse.com
Additional information and photo Credits: Getty Images, Alexander Deleuse
National Gem Collection, The Smithsonian Institution,
Jeffry E. Post with photographs by Chip Clark, 1997
Gems, Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification,
Fifth Edition, R. Webster, Butterworth and Heinemanne 1962
Gems, Crystals, & Minerals,
Anna S, Sofianides, George E. Harlow
with photographs by Erica and Harold Van Pelt,
Simon and Schuster, New York 1990
Archeology Treasures
edited by Alberto Siliotti, VMB Publishers 2006
DIAMOND SHAPES
ROUND PRINCESS EMERALD ASSCHER MARQUISE OVAL RADIANT
PEAR HEART CUSHION BAGUETTE
DIAMOND CUTTING PROCESS
Not to be confused with the shape of a diamond, cut refers to the arrangement of a diamond’s facets. Cut is the most important of the 4C’s and is the only “C” under man’s control.
Using an exacting mathematical formula, master cutters create ideal cut diamond for 100% light refraction.
All light beams should be refracted up to the viewer's eye as shown in the 'ideal' sketch in the diagram as opposed to 'shallow' and 'deep' cut allowing light beams to travel out of the stone.
The result: unparalleled beauty and grace, maximizing the coveted diamond characteristics of brilliance, scintillation and fire.
DIAMOND COLOR GRADING
Color is determined by viewing the body of the diamond from the side with the table down and proper lighting.
Pure colorless diamonds are classifies as "D" and the color scale ranges alphabetically from D-Z.
Diamonds range from colorless - the rarest and most valuable - to various degrees of yellow.
COLORLESS: D, E, F
NEAR COLORLESS: G, H, I, J
FAINT YELLOW: K, L, M
VERY LIGHT YELLOW: N, OP, QR
LIGHT YELLOW: ST, UV, WY, YZ
DIAMOND CLARITY GRADING
Clarity is the degree to which identifying characteristics known as inclusions are present in a diamond.
FLAWLESS; Internal Flawless No inclusions visible under 10x magnification
VVS, VVS1, VVS2: Very Very Slight Inclusion Inclusions are minute, extremely difficult to locate under 10x magnification
VS, VS1, VS2: Very Slight Inclusion Inclusions are minor, difficult to locate under 10x magnification
SI, SI1, SI2: Slight Inclusion Inclusions are noticeable, relatively easy to locate under 10x magnification
I, I1, I2, I3: Imperfect Inclusions are visible to the unaided eye
CARAT-WEIGHT
Carat weight is a standard unit of weight used for gemstones. A diamond s weight is the easiest of the 4C's to measure.
One carat is equal to 200 milligrams. Carat weight can be expressed as a decimal, fraction, or in "points." There are 100 points in a carat. A 50-point diamond is 1/2 a Carat.
Jewelry made by Deleuse has ideal cut diamonds, VS, E-G range.
Deleuse Jewelers stocks new diamonds and jewelry with full insurance that the diamonds we sell are conflict free.
Contact Jeff Deleuse, Graduate Gemologist, for more information.
415-459-3739 deleuse@deleusejewelers.com. deleusejewelers@gmail.com
Partial information credit to Lazare Kaplan Diamonds
Seed pearl is the term given to both salt and freshwater pearls smaller than 3mm. By World Jewellery Foundation (CIBJO) definition, these pearls are of natural origin only, produced without human intervention.
Seed pearls have been a popular choice through time as smaller size pearls allow for intricate detailing and easier incorporation into a design than larger, statement pearls.
During the neoclassic period of 1800 – 1820, bunches of grapes and currants were represented in jewellery design by use of seed pearls. In the early Victorian period spanning 1837 – 1860, the trend of the time was to thread seed pearls backed with mother-of-pearl onto white horsehair, creating parures of elaborate designs.
By the art deco period of 1920 – 1930, the use of seed pearls had evolved to include adorning lavish evening bags along with emeralds, rubies, and other precious gemstones.
Unlike seed pearls, keshi pearls can be of any size, depending on the oyster or mollusc in which they grow. Akoya keshi pearls tend to be 2mm or less, whilst south sea and tahitian keshi pearls are generally 4mm+, even reaching impressive sizes over 10mm.
Originally keshi, meaning ‘poppy’, was a trade designated term in Japan referring to small pearls, either naturally forming in saltwater or cultured without a bead, with a baroque shape.
In more recent times, the term keshi pearls encompasses non-beaded pearls that develop either accidentally or intentionally as a by-product of the pearl culturing process, such as when the mantle rim of the oyster is damaged, or when part or the whole of the inserted mantle tissue creates a pearl sac when the bead is rejected. This means keshi pearls may be south sea, tahitian, akoya, cultured freshwater, or natural.
Under the CIBJO pearl guidelines, it is noted the term keshi is often misused, and specified that the formation origin as either ‘natural’ or ‘cultured’ should always be included alongside keshi when describing them.
Since the growth of keshis may occur accidentally without human intention, and they consist of only natural material (the layers of nacre), there is much debate and differing opinion as to whether keshi pearls should be classified as natural. The difficult factor is distinguishing whether the cause of growth was truly accidental or intentionally inflicted.
Regardless, being the only saltwater cultured pearl without a nucleus inserted by man, the keshi pearl has gained an appreciation of its own.
Given the lack of a uniform bead and often unintentional nature of keshi growth, these pearls are baroque, occurring in a wide and interesting range of shapes that offers jewellery a sense of uniqueness and intriguing design.
Occurring in every type of pearl oyster, keshi pearls come in every possible colour of pearl – from the cream and silvery whites of akoya and south sea pearls, to the cool colours of tahitian pearls. They may even be what looks
like two pearls conjoined - each a different colour.
Taking advantage of the truly inimitable shapes and the exceptional lustre resulting from all-nacre pearls, keshis are both growing in popularity amongst consumers and appreciation amongst jewellers as an inspiring addition to jewellery design.
Posted July 01, 2022 |
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The old Sanskrit word “tapas,” or fire, is the root word from which the modern name Topaz is derived. Red Topaz is one of the most rare color of all the colorful topaz gemstones, making it extremely valued. The largest faceted red topaz found to date is an oval brilliant cut gem which weighs 70.40 carats. The color is natural and a deep red, the origin of the stone is from Brazil or from the Soviet Union.
So why do we call yellow and yellowish brown gem stones Topaz when the name is derived from a reddish orange color? This error of using the name of Topaz for all yellow stones, stones that are actually quartz, dates back to antiquity.
One of the earliest known sources of topaz was thought to be from Saxon Germany. The crystals found there were a pale wine-yellow color and was traditionally one the most sought after topaz for many years.
Most citrines and brown quartz are sold under the names of Topaz. This has created some confusion about the gemstone Topaz. However the color of topaz is generally much warmer in luster and tone with an orange or pinkish ‘overtone’ color than that of any quartz stones.
The names quartz topaz, smoky topaz, scotch topaz and Madeira topaz are all misnomers, and generally do not refer to real topaz.
‘Precious Topaz’ is the term reserved for a true gem topaz that has the color of a peachy-champagne tone and an intense golden to reddish orange called ‘imperial topaz’.
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Topaz crystals are found in cavities in rocks such as granite or rhyolite. Topaz is composed of silicate of aluminum containing fluorine and hydroxyl.Gem quality topaz is mostly found in pegmatite dykes.
Topaz crystals typically form prisms with a diamond shaped cross section and a pyramidal top. One of the largest transparent topaz found was from Minas Gerais, Brazil, and is currently on display at the American Museum of Natural History in New York.
Gem quality Topaz crystals can grow to an unbelievably huge size. Larger than any other gem crystals, the topaz world record is at 597 lbs.
Egyptians and Romans obtained their topaz from Sri Lanka and believed it would strengthen the mind and prevent mental disorders as well as sudden death. They used topaz crystals for eye ailments; the prescription called for immersing the gem in wine for three days and three nights followed by application of the topaz to the afflicted eye.
A topaz engraved with the figure of a falcon was believed to help its bearer cultivate the goodwill of kings and princes. And, as a cure for madness, the topaz could increase one’s wisdom and prudence, a coolant for excessive anger.
The majority of mined topaz is completely colorless and transparent. A very slight pale grey blue color is also found in abundance in nature; however, most blue and dark blue topaz sold today is irradiated white topaz. A rare sea green color topaz resembling the aquamarine is mined in Russia.
Topaz crystals in brown, orange and yellow brown, known as ‘sherry topaz’ and vivid pinkish-orange to red-orange known as ‘imperial topaz’ are found only in Brazil.
A pink topaz may look very similar to a kunzite, morganite and pale pink tourmalines, but with a closer inspection you can see the warmer luster, tone and more intense colors at both ends of the topaz. Some of the sherry colored topaz from Japan and the Ukraine may fade permanently to almost colorless when exposed to sunlight.
Although topaz is an eight on the Mohs scale of hardness, it will break easily at right angles to the length of the crystal if it has a knock or blow to the edge of the stone. Topazes need to be treated with care.
Topaz crystals are cut into long oval or pear shapes because of the prismatic shape of the crystals; enabling light refraction and increase the luster in the stones. The longer sized the cuts are it will enhance the color at both ends of the stone; this is a good indicator to identify a true topaz versus a quartz stone.
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In the Middle Ages (in Europe), the gem topaz was not very popular and was mainly used for ecclesiastical or royal jewelry. However, by the eighteenth century topaz became popular pared with diamonds in Spain and France.
In the nineteenth century, topaz and amethyst became the most fashionable gems for earrings combined with pearls. During the Victorian era and later into the Art Deco era topaz was extremely popular with the yellowish orange color being the favorite.
One of the most incredible topaz items, and one of my favorites which was on exhibit at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco for the Artistic Luxury, is a topaz vase. Russian Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich gave this carved topaz vase from the House of Faberge to Elizabeta Baletta, prima ballerina at the Imperial MikhailovskyTheater in St. Petersburg in 1900. The topaz is finely polished to complete transparency and polished to perfection, the gem resembles glass with a beautiful warm golden brown color. This simple cut topaz vase is mounted on a gold base.
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Janet Deleuse Smoky Quartz Pendant
BY JANET DELEUSE
]]>We hand-fabricate our jewelry the old fashioned way. A photo of a custom designed ring that we finished making on our work bench.
With attention to detail, quality, design concepts and complex restoration of fine jewelry and watches and insurance appraisals are offered as our services. Deleuse Jewelers in Fairfax, California carry on the tradition of customer service that began in Nice, France 1945.
Showcasing our custom designed fine jewelry that we manufacture exemplifies the creativity and excellent quality that hallmark Deleuse Jewelers. With an increasing portfolio, many of Janet Deleuse custom jewelry pieces have been featured in WWD, Town & Country, Robb Report and Lustre magazines.
Beginning the tradition in 1945 until present, Deleuse Jewelers has always been a family business owned and operated by the Deleuse family.
John Deleuse began his career in Horology, graduating in 1934 from the Ecole Nationale d'Horlogie de Cluses and opened the first store in Nice, France his hometown.
After emigrating to the United States, John opened his second store in San Francisco, in 1951.
Jeff Deleuse joined the family business after receiving a degree in Psychology. Jeff then earned a Graduate Gemologist degree with an emphasis on diamonds and gemstones and became a certified appraiser.
Jeff's wife, Janet Deleuse, married into the family after her formal education in Molecular Biology. Janet brought her artistic talent for designing custom jewelry.
In 1982, Jeff and Janet Deleuse opened the third Deleuse Jewelers store in Marin County independent of Deleuse Jewelers in San Francisco.
Deleuse in Fairfax, Ca offers professional services by specializing in gemology and fine diamonds; members of the American Gem Society, American Gem Trade Association and the Contemporary Jewelry Design Group.
Jeff Deleuse
Janet Deleuse
Affiliations:
Jeff and Janet Deleuse
Avenue Promenade des Anglais, Nice, France, one block from Deleuse Jewelers. Photo circa 1964
Deleuse Jewelers original Store, established in 1945 by John Deleuse, at 2 Rue de France, Nice, France. Photo circa 1964
Original Faberge bracelet, limited edition.
Faberge bracelet available in our store and online.
Victor Mayer's family history in fine jewelry enameling fabrication with Faberge dates back to St. Petersburg, Russia 1895.
Faberge Earrings with removable diamond hoops.
Limited edition with certification.
Available online and in our store.
In 1989 Victor Mayer owned the license with Faberge & Co. as the official jewelers of Faberge producing rare processes of fine translucent enameling over engraved gold; guilloche. Talent and skills incorporated with a few experts in the field from Germany and France where the guilloche technique originated from.
Victor Mayer celebrated the family's 100 year anniversary in 1990 with the release of the collection "L'esprit de Faberge" from the court jeweler's original work in Russia for the Tzar family.
Today Victor Mayer's Faberge Collections are a rarity and for the collector who appreciates the lost artform and skills, which no longer exist.
Each Victor Mayer Faberge Jewel was limited in production and has a certificate of authenticity.
We had the opportunity to represent Victor Mayer Faberge jewelry in our store in Tiburon, Ca and Fairfax, Ca.
We are offering one of these jewels for sale with the signature wooden box . Bracelet #12/100 produced worldwide.
View Faberge Multi-Egg Bracelet
Gemfields purchased the Faberge name and license and currently produces jewelry using their gemstones from their privately owned worldwide gem mines.
Janet and Jeff Deleuse
Deleuse Jewelers, 55 Broadway, Fairfax, Ca
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Gaius Plinius Secundus (23 AD – August 25, 79 AD) known as Pliny the Elder, was a Roman author and naturalist.
Pliny noted in his writings about opal, ”In opal you will see red fire, the glorious purple of amethyst, and the sea green of the emerald, and all these colors glittering together in incredible union.”
The Romans obtained opals from the mines in Czechoslovakia until 1788, which yielded a variety of white opaque with flashes of internal rainbow colors.
Romans treasured opals, and wore them in rings as symbolic intaglios representing love, hope and purity.
The aborigines of Australia considered opals undesirable for adorning their bodies. Found in deep caves, they believed that opals were “half human and half serpent, lurking in a hole in the ground, ready to lure men to destruction with flashes of colorful magic.”
The aboriginal name Coober Pedy in southern Australia means ‘a man in a hole’ —which is exactly how the miners extract opal. The summer temperature is unbearably hot, so the miners build their homes in underground excavations on a hillside.The fragile, white opal may crack when brought up from the cool depths of the earth into the hot and arid temperatures. Opals are brittle, easily chipped and scratched. The hardness of the opal varieties varies from 5.5 to 6.5 on Moh’s scale. If exposed to high temperatures they may crack or craze. The fragility of the stone makes it challenging to cut and polish, adding to its desirability.
Janet Deleuse Black Opal with Black Jade and Diamonds in Platinum
The flashing colors, unique to opals, can be described as ‘neon lights’ reflecting a rainbow of colors from within the opal. Using scanning electron microscopes, depicting transparent spheres of silica tightly bonded together, explains the flashing phenomenon from within the opal. The spaces within the spheres have molecules of water- this arrangement breaks visible white light into separate colors by diffraction of light. In lesser quality opals, the silica spheres are not arranged in a regular pattern; therefore the opal will not look as colorful. Opals that do not flash colors are lacking spheres of silica and water molecules. Fire opals have one overall body color that is transparent orange to red and are not in the variety with silica and water.
Australia produces 85 percent of the world’s supply of opal. Other smaller sources of fine gem opal are from Mexico, Brazil and the United States.
Australian opal is unique in the fact that it is found in sedimentary rocks formed in horizontal layers and also from the volcanic rocks formed at higher temperatures.
Vintage Black Opal Ring
Opal is discovered in five types of distinct colors. White opal has a light or white body color with strong flashes of rainbow colors. Black opal has a black or dark blue, green or grey body color with strong vivid flashes of color. Water opal has a transparent, colorless body with brilliant flashes of different colors. Boulder opals are opaque with a deep blue to purple body, with the natural matrix affixed to the stone, internal flashes vary from greens, blues and purple hues. Fire opals, from Mexico have a transparent orange to red body color and do not have any flashes of internal color.
While following a wounded kangaroo through the hot desert in Queensland, trackers found loose opal on the ground. This type of opal is known as sandstone opal because it is in freestanding sandstone veins and is easier to remove than boulder or black opal. This find started the mining of the White Cliffs opal field in 1889.
Thin veins of fine quality boulder opals were first discovered in 1872, in the deep caves in Australia. One of the most valuable and beautifully colored varieties of opal, with internal flashes of brilliant colors is mined in Queensland, Australia. This unique variety of opal is called, Boulder Opal and has a backing of ironstone matrix. The thin, but brilliant colored boulder opal was primarily used for carving cameos. They are not to be mistaken for doublets because a boulder opal is one piece, as opposed to a doublet with a non-natural backing artificially attached. Opals that are cut very thin and have a pale white color are often adhered to a dark backing of black onyx or a black glass, a technique used to enhance the colors in the opal.
When black opal was first found in Australia in 1887, Queen Victoria gave opal jewelry to all of her children, creating a demand and increasing popularity for opals. One of the most famous sources for the incredibly, vibrant black opal is Wallangualla, Australia, known as Lightning Ridge, discovered in 1903. The miners originally called the gem, opal dirt, because the composition is clay mixed with sandstone.
Janet Deleuse Designer Black Opal Ring
Primarily mined in Mexico, fire opals are transparent with an orange to a deep red body color. Fire opal is found in many areas of Mexico in cavities of volcanic lavas and was known to the Aztecs. Evaluated by their color, clarity and transparency, fire opals with a vibrant red color are the most valuable. Other colors range from yellow to brown and orange hues. Fire opals are the only variety that can be faceted.
Other types of opals that are not considered gemstone varieties are an opaque green color, similar to that of chrysoprase, cherry-red, yellow and a rose– all of which are opaque. Hyaliteis the colorless, completely transparent variety of opal that looks like glass, sometimes called Muller’s glass. Imitation opal is made of small fragments of real opal set in a black resin.
Sir Walter Scott wrote the novel, Anne of Geierstein, a tale about a beautiful woman who believed that her moods and chance of luck were affected when she wore opals—blaming the opals as the cause of her ill fortune. Scott’s novel created the negative lore of opal jewelry, linking it to tragedy and creating superstition.
Goshwara Designer Earrings
Some of the most important historical jewelry made from opal was created during the Art Nouveau period. Rene Lalique, the French jeweler (1860-1945), used opal frequently in his renderings of natural elements in jewelry. Lalique became famous for the opal jewelry he designed for Sarah Bernhardt(1844-1923) that she wore on stage. And, contrary to Sir Walter Scott’s novel with bad luck opals—Bernhardt had great luck and fortune in her life as she wore her opal jewelry everyday.Shakespeare referred to an opal as “the queen of gems” in his book, Twelfth Night.
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Written by Janet Deleuse, all rights reserved
Photo and some information credit: Getty Images, Alexander Deleuse.
National Gem Collection, The Smithsonian Institution, Jeffry E. Post with photographs by Chip Clark, 1997
Gems, Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification, Fifth Edition, R. Webster, Butterworth and Heinemanne 1962
Gems, Crystals, & Minerals, Anna S, Sofianides, George E. Harlow with photographs by Erica and Harold Van Pelt, SImon and Schuster, New York 1990
The Master Jewelers, edited by A. Kenneth Snowman, Thames & Hudson 1990
contact: 415-459-3739
OPEN Tuesday-Saturday 10:30-4:30
READ: Jeff Deleuse, Buying A Diamond GIA Diamond Buying Guide What is Gold? What is Platinum? About Pearls
Affiliations:
Jeff Deleuse
Janet Deleuse
Please review our return policy before ordering, for more questions or detailed information please call or email.
All jewelry is fully insured on site with appraisals conducted on an appointment basis.
Jeff Deleuse 415-459-3739, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30-4:30
Fine Jewelry Designer Janet Deleuse began working in the family jewelry business following her marriage to gemologist Jeff Deleuse. She put a degree in molecular biology aside to embrace her true passion for art and design, which she had cultivated since childhood.
By 1982, her love of the hand processes in creating artwork had blossomed into designing magnificent, one-of-a-kind statement jewelry—earrings, bracelets, necklaces, rings—that have been featured in WWD, Town & Country, The Robb Report and Lustre Magazines, among others.
The designer's exclusive hand fabricated pieces are widely recognized for classic lines and fine quality gems, including pearls and flawless WS, VS and EF diamonds set in 18k gold or platinum, as well a penchant for monochromatic styling—"I like clean lines, says Deleuse, even if the design is intricate."
In addition, the designer has recently expanded into couture outerwear and accessories with a collection of pearl evening bags, pearl belts, silk scarves and couture outerwear, all handcrafted in the San Francisco Bay area and offered under the Janet Deleuse label.
Family owned and operated Deleuse Jewelers was established in 1934 by Jeff's father, John Deleuse, a master watchmaker and graduate of the Ecole Nationale d'Horologie de Cluses. In 1945, he opened the first family-owned and operated boutique in his hometown of Nice, France.
Janet and Jeff Deleuse opened Deleuse Jewelers in Fairfax, California in 1982, and continue the brand's mission to offer the most uniquely elegant jewelry, using the world's finest gems and employing the highest quality craftsmanship.
Joni (our dog) and store greeter watching the sun go down on the city skyline at our previous store in Tiburon, Ca.
Janet Deleuse Sapphire Flower Ring
Sapphires, christened, “the gem of soul and autumn” — a fitting name for the September’s birthstone. Ancient writings revealed that wearing a sapphire would “protect the person from envy and helping to attract divine favor and will have power to influence spirits.”
The ancient sages spoke of being able to understand the most obscure of oracles with the belief that fraud
was banished from the presence of a sapphire. In the twelfth century the Bishop of Rennes wore sapphires in ecclesiastical rings based on these ancient spiritual beliefs.
Star sapphire is worn to represent faith, hope and destiny. These three are represented from the light beams reflecting off the top of a cabochon-cut sapphire that exhibits three crossed lines. The star sapphire’s reflective beams were believed to signify the lights from the Star of Bethlehem and named “the stone of destiny” from this belief.
The Etruscans wore the oldest sapphire jewelry, dating to the seventh century, and the Greeks, Egyptians and Romans treasured sapphires. DeBoot wrote in 1609, that the Germans revered sapphire as a victory stone.
Sapphire mining began in 544 B.C., before the time of Buddha, in Sri Lanka. Marco Polo’s travels took him to the ‘Island of Serendib’, known as Sri Lanka, where he admired the stunning and colorful stones.
The Hindus, Burmese and Sinhalese recognized that ruby and sapphire were of the same mineral long before the Europeans did. It wasn’t documented until 1800 that ruby and sapphire are gem varieties of the mineral corundum. Corundum is found in many different colors, depending on the percentage amounts of the different metallic oxides incorporated within the crystal. Sapphires can be yellow, pink, violet, green, brown and orange, in addition to the blue hues. Padparadscha, a rare, vivid orange sapphire, was named from the Sinhalese word for lotus flower.
Derived from the Greek word sapphirus, the word sapphire means blue. In the Middle Ages sappirus was also used for the blue stone lapis lazuli, causing confusion between the two stones. The Ten Commandments were said to have been written on a sapphirus stone, referring to lapis lazuli.
Janet Deleuse Designer Sapphire Rings
The American Museum of Natural History houses one of the largest, finest quality star sapphire, weighing 536 carat, named the “Star of India.” One of the largest known rough (uncut) sapphires is a 2,302carat –and, amazingly, the gem carver, Norman Manes, spent eighteen hundred hours carving the form of Abraham Lincoln’s profile.
Ideally, a blue sapphire should exhibit an intense blue without color zoning or internal flaws. Color zoning refers to a variation of shades of color intensity from within a stone, reflected deeper blue hues distinctly separated from lighter hues. Internal flaws within the stone may appear as white or black lines or specks, greatly diminishing the value.
Sapphires with an inky blue color and an overall forest green tone is the least valuable and primarily from Thailand and Australia.
The most valuable sapphires have an intense, evenly distributed royal blue color with a reflective sparkle. Blue sapphires can be confused with benitoite, iolite, kyanite, spinel, tanzanite, tourmaline, and irradiated blue topaz (originally white, known as London blue.)Synthetic sapphires have been produced since the early 1900’s and have properties identical to natural corundum. Synthetic star sapphires became popular for men’s jewelry in 1947 and in the 1960’s. Please refer to my earlier post on synthetic gems
Sapphires are formed in syenite and pegmatite secondary deposits, known as alluvial deposits, a product from the weathering of the original rocks, called byon. Sapphire crystals grow in the form of a hexagonal bi-pyramid of twelve triangular faces. With hardness on the Mohs scaleof 9, the sapphire is durable. However, a sapphire should be handled with care, if dropped on a hard surface it will crack internally.
The most famous source for fine sapphires is the district around in upper Myanmar. Other important sources for sapphires have been Thailand and Cambodia; where gem deposits are derived from basalt, an iron rich rock. Recently, in 1980, gold miners unearthed gem quality rubies and sapphires northwest of Hanoi, Vietnam.
Sapphires that are of a scintillating, pale blue color, known as cornflower blue, are from India, near the district of Kashmir and are frequently called Ceylon Sapphire. However, the name Ceylon Sapphire is used to identify the specific light hued, sparkling, violet blue color and Ceylon may not be the original source of the stone.
Sapphires with colors ranging from blue, violet, purple, yellow, orange, white and pink are found exclusively in Sir Lanka. No other mines have produced a greater variety of colorful hues.
Discovered around the globe, sapphires have been obtained in China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Australia, United States, Kenya, Tanzania, Nigeria, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Brazil, Colombia, Norway, Finland, Czechoslovakia, Russia, Romania and Borneo.Sapphires are cut in different shapes. Finer quality stones are typically cut in a step cut, oval or round. Flawed and poorer quality sapphires are tumbled into beads or used for carving.
An ancient practice used to enhance the blue in a poor quality sapphire originally developed in Sri Lanka. Creating an illusion– making a light sapphire appear darker, by covering the back of the stone with the blue part of a peacock’s feather, the stone would then look more valuable.
In 1894, large sapphire deposits were discovered in Yogo Gulch, Montana, USA, and remained an important source until the end of the 1920’s. The unique color of the Montana sapphire varies from steel blue to pale violet blue. Tiffany Jewelers embraced the newly discovered sapphires immediately and became one of the first jewelers to use the lively blues in their jewelry collections. The mixture of the Montana Sapphires blue hues are striking when used in monochromatic designs.
An example of this is the butterfly pin created by JAR, exhibited in the French Masters Jewelry exhibit at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.241-3Getty Images
Jean Toussaint, nicknamed ‘The Panther’, worked with Peter Lemarch in the design department at The House of Cartier. The duo created a collection which became famous, originally called ‘Great Cat Jewels, currently known as the Panther Collection. In 1949 the Duchess of Windsor acquired one of the first created and most famous diamond and sapphire panther pins, which she frequently wore.
Jewelry collectors, such as Barbara Hutton and Daisy Fellows were envious of the Duchess’ sleek panther pin. This competition prompted orders for magnificent panthers in varying poses from Cartier Jewelers. The image is a crouched panther in a life like pose on a large perfect round cabochon star sapphire weighing 152.35carats. The Panther motif has become one of Cartier’s most iconic designs, incorporated in their jewelry and watches collection.
One of the most famous art deco sapphire and diamond necklaces was owned and worn frequently by the owner of Palm Beach’s Mar-A-Lago, Marjorie Merriweather Post. Created by Cartier in 1936, with hundreds of square, round, baguette cut sapphires and diamonds– Mrs. Post simply called it “The Blue Necklace.” A large and perfectly blue cushion shape sapphire is set in the center of a diamond deco motif. The necklace can be unclipped into two separate bracelets and the center sapphire deco motif can be worn separately as a brooch. Mrs. Merriweather Post was known to have worn at least one of the sapphire pieces or the entire necklace everyday.
Created to commemorate the exhibition of the treasures from Tutankhamen on exhibit in 1972, this unique Egyptian style necklace was designed by Bulgari. Incorporating a mix of colorful combinations of sapphires, Bulgari produced a fitting jewel for the occasion. Large cabochon cut blue sapphires, black onyx, salmon pink coral and diamonds –the necklace was designed in lotus flower motifs. Representing Egyptian art form, in color and mantle style, the necklace is comparable to the jewels worn by the Egyptian royalty.
All Sapphire jewelry featured are one-off, designed by Janet Deleuse.
Written by Janet Deleuse, all rights reserved
Shop Janet Deleuse Fine Jewelry online deleuse.com
Image credits:
Daisy ring: Alex Deleuse 2009
Cut sapphires: Gems and Crystals, From the American Museum of Natural History, Anna S. Sofianides and George E. Harlow. Photographs by Erica and Harold Van Pelt
Simon and Schuster, 1990 New York
Mogok mine: Mogok, Myanmar. Ein Reise durch Burma zu den schonsten Rubinen und Saphiren der Welt
Roland Schlussel. Photographs by Roland Schlussel. Germany 2002.
Sapphire Butterfly: Masterpieces of French Jewelry, Judith Price. Running Press 2006
Cartier Panther: The Jewels of The Duchess of Windsor, Johne Culme and Nicholas Rayner, Vendome Press 1987
Art Deco Necklace: Masterpieces of French Jewelry, Judith Price. Running Press 2006
Egyptian and jeweled sapphire necklaces: Bulgari, Amanda Triossi and Daniela Mascetti, Mondadori Electa 2007
Sapphire Briollet necklace: Alex Deleuse 2009
Getty Images
Additional Information Credit:
Gems, Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification, R. Webster 1962 Oxford
The National Gem Collection, Jeffry E. Post, Smithsonian Institution 1997
Famous Jewelry Collectors, Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes, 1999 Thames & Hudson, London
Janet Deleuse Multi-Colored Sapphire Briollette Necklace with Diamond Clasp
Janet Deleuse Designer Sapphire Ring
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The metallic properties, which make platinum perfect for jewelry use, are high tensile strength and durability—a secure way for setting precious stones.
Janet Deleuse Hand-fabricated Platinum and Ruby Ring
Platinum’s greyish white luster will never fade and when scratched the metal will not wear away as gold, therefore the jewelry can last forever. Intricate designs can be created from platinum because of the strength and durability as opposed to gold or silver, which have softer metallic properties.
Platinum is alloyed with other metals, 95% pure platinum when it is used for jewelry will be hallmarked with Pt. 950 in a diamond shaped logo.
All rings featured are Janet Deleuse designer jewelry in platinum.
]]>Commercial products that are on store shelves often have labels with 'natural' 'organic' products have preservatives (for shelve storage) that are harsh chemicals.
1/ Know what the ingredients are. It's not so difficult; if you cannot understand the words listed under ingredients, then you probably do not want to put it on your face. 2/ Use what works best for your skin type. If your skin is oily and you use products too often to 'dry' your skin, the skin cells will 'send' more oil to the surface, making your skin more oily. When bacteria is on the skin surface it will cause breakouts.
3/ Make it easy for yourself to develop a routine. Fit it into your lifestyle, cleansing and hydrating should not be a chore.
Step 1: Cleanse your face with a natural and mild cleanser. Deleuse Cleanser gently cleanses your skin and has a mild toner which removes the soap residue and balancing the pH.
Step 2: Deleuse Rose & Geranium Hydrating Toner Mist makes it simple and easy to tone without needing facial wipes.
Step 3: Apply a moisturizer for your skin type. The pink label Restorative Night Cream is an enriched product for medium to dry skin. Oil based products actually heal skin cells.
The Blue Label Deleuse Night Cream is a light, coconut based cream.
The Orange Label, Mango & Seaweed Cream is formulated for daytime.
Full of amazing skin repair ingredients, it is truly an anti-aging cream.
The Green Label Deleuse Restorative Night Cream with CBD
Step 4: Use a cleansing mask once a week. Deleuse Toning Algae Mask is the best natural exfoliation for cleansing and rejuvenating your skin. It is super cleansing and healing for breakouts. It is also formulated to use as a quick scrub if you don't have the extra 15 minutes to wait for the mask to dry. The ingredients have been used for hundreds of years.
Deleuse Honey Mask is formulated for dry skin and for healing scars. Use once a week, the healing oils mixed in raw honey is an antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and your skin will be naturally cleansed and hydrated.
All Deleuse Skin Care Products are formulated and hand-mixed by Janet Deleuse. Fresh batches are made every few weeks.
Purchase Deleuse Skin Care Products
Link to ingredients healing properties
Janet Deleuse has been making skin care healing products for many years and has a Biology Degree with an emphasis in Physiology.
Call if you have questions: Janet Deleuse, 415-459-3739
Purchase in store only.
We do not sell online due to temperatures during shipping.
Deleuse, 55 Broadway, Fairfax, CA 94930
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